Here goes the saga of bicycle tour from Arusha Tanzania to Kigali Rwanda, I’m sorry that few will be able to go through all due to my frailer of make it short, enjoy it as it is my pleasure to share with you.
Begin…
It starts as dinner talk with Hennie in Johannesburg last year then we discuss it in the mail, to the phone and finally we meet and go through maps in the detail as much as possible, weather, geography, security and so on the list continues. The logistics become more complicated and tense as I’m leading the group unsupported to in the most remote areas, imagine how many questions you will have to answer for a Dr. Engineer of 65 years old!
How does someone begin a journey like this one? There should be a lot of approaches. The differences come when it is bicycle safari, through tough areas and challenging regions. Anyways we plan to put as cyclist Helen Lloyds put it “plans are like rules which are there to be broken” .
There are lots of things to consider but with the experienced cyclists Hennie and Francois, I have less to worry; Hennie, holding the record of the oldest person ever riding the Freedom Challenge while Francois did it twice. Do not get fooled by the name “Freedom Challenge”, this is one of the most respectable mountain bike races, by the way, you may not even ever hear about it... Most think about fitness and being able to be number one. Though this count, there are also other things which you will have to consider before making the decision of jumping on it. It takes place during the southern winter, 6 days on the highlands of the Drakensberg in South Africa, no support vehicle; no GPS but only map and compass find your way to the sleeping point! I don’t want to exaggerate but I mean it mountain bike tour which includes so many things more than you may imagine. Please do not hesitate to check out their site www.freedomchallenge.org.za.
I’m also dreaming of it but I’m pretty aware that it is a damn though if I will be able to transform it into reality soon I’ll be the youngest man.
So this is a bit experienced group but the adventure it adventures rarely count on experience, anyway we are doing it for the sake of new experience. After driving from airport we had a nice Indian dinner of chicken barbeque, a variety of bread and verges with enough paper. We took short walking around the town for stretching then last parking. We left Arusha town on the morning of Sunday with the company of Trish, we cycled west north of the town try to avoid tarmac road. As normal or it the character of cyclists I don’t know, we were full of energy enthusiastic. It such a moment when I’m tired I always try to remind myself. The cool breeze wind cooling our body while the green escalating landscapes ease our mind and so we pedal counting down kilometers. At noon the sun becomes ferocious, suck out water from our body result in exhaustion. At some time the climb started cycled uphill towards Mt.Monduli(2660m) it was at its most began. We take a break at it foothill village Monduli Chini (lower Moduli). Rice, beans, and meat with two cokes each does the job. Here Trish could have to say bye. We were pleased to have a female company; she had a challenge from her colleges telling them she is going to cycle. She gets well with the other and engaged in a different conversation this makes her short time more enjoyable, she might be envied for the guys who will do this for more than 19 days, thanks she already knew the price; hills, heat it’s what she experienced so far.
Realty, in the great rift valley basin…
Just after lunch the weather changed H2Oclouds, may be cumulonimbus cover the sky slow down the sun rays pushed by wind now can’t avoid this low-pressure part the rain forest will pull water down, this was a good omen for us. Soon the rain was washing our sweat bodies somehow ease the uphill labor toward the peak of Monduli. As Francois has to push his bike up we had short breaks with Hennie for birds identification, we were now in the mountain rain forest. The secretive Tropical Boubou doesn’t seem to care for our presence, still make it call which give it a.k.a Bottle Bird. These calls vary and eco in the forest and valleys. “Pity my frau” it what Red Chest Cuckoo claims from the high branches. Unfortunately, beautiful Hartlabu’s Turaco didn’t come out for Hennie to see what he see in the book. Now the shower was passing but since we were already high enough we continue enjoying the dump air. We stopped at Monduli Juu (Upper Monduli), refuel out fuel with strongest brand oil in the universe “Coke Cola”. I used this time to drop a few tips about the region; we are in the home of Maasai by the way these are modern Maasai. Monduli Juu is the home of Sokoine, former Tanzania prime minister as well as Monduli Chini Lowasa though in the last government he has to resign accused of corruption.
We were decent to the plains we were amazed by how it was dry, hot, rocky road and middle of nowhere. It is hard to imagine there people live here, the people we come across were Maasai in the meeting under acacia shade. I had a quick view of the scene, some sat on the rocks, some ease lay but tentatively listen to the one who was stand and hardly try to explain something to his fellow who now their attention turned to whites and black who lost the direction. I guess he should be the strong one who can not only face lion but strangers as well. From the group walk towards us greet with the best of his Kiswahili and ask to offer me support. I give him little and simple explanation as much as possible but I could sense how hard he could grasp what I’m telling him. We carry on behind accompanied by expressionless faces of the congregation. I was a bit sad to know that we really break that meeting which I was told was to solve misunderstanding between two families. This scene it a really broad topic that will be discussed for a certain extended period.
I do admire Maasai for their brevity, their willingness to restore their culture, tradition and their uniqueness but my recent discovery of Maasai character particular men being storytellers it a total surprise. Maasai men, I mean the one who already circumcised if you’re not circumcised they do not consider you a man. Soon after circumcision, you will get few life storks from your daddy then you can start to build your flock, the flock size determines the size of your family; wives plus children. So these men apart of counting their beast in the morning and evening, examine who is pregnant who is not they have nothing much to do. They will work across the plains to the meeting place bypassing his neighbors’ boma (the enclosure) talk about is beast as this is the main topic. They will meet under acacia tree somewhere for the rest of the day chewing tobacco and talk whatever they know but most should relate to the beasts. One of my friends tells me these guys are lease even pronouncing words when he failed to listen to what they were saying testing his poor Maasai. So now you can imagine the strange scene of whites on the loaded bikes, there will be lots to talk about their skins, dress, what they eat? Which kind of cow? Et cetera. The fun thing is that they never interrupt each, everyone has a chance to explain whatever he knows, and no one will disagree by the way one does not need even to have evidence.
They do not know about lying and cheating all are the same to them, Isn’t this interesting?
As the sun starts to sink in the west we also start to talk about where we can pass the night, find the best sport it always the agreement but in the bush which look almost the same and the fact that the day become cooler your muscle are total obsessed by rhythm of pedaling it make even harder to make quick decision. The first boma we came across after a couple of hours remand Francois his dream of sleep with Maasai. He is a real enthusiast and an emotional person it will be hard to disagree with his suggestion. We deviated from the main track cycle towards the boma, under acacia tree are some few members of this large compound. I great them in Maasai. After a short conversation with understanding that we need somewhere to sleep one man leads us in the enclosure full of huts than into one of the hut. By sign and a few words from Kiswahili, I told him we just need the ground and not his precious bed with cattle hide. Within 1hr there were reasonable amounts of spectators, they didn’t come bare hands this will be rude for visitors, they brought about enough flies. We strangle to pitch tents as wind blow and through flies. The flies made this place uncomfortable they tend to concentrate on face places like mouth, eyes, ears they really irritate. Hennie I try our best to copy up while Francois straggle with flies spry but all in vain. Then lastly come the fun and final challenge the spectators don’t decrease neither seem to satisfy their curiosity. They could watch Hennie each movement he happed to make, for a couple minutes without even exchange the words. We get busy with cooking then I and Hennie remain out there eating while Francois hid on his tent try to avoid all sorts of unpleasant. The flush lights, binoculars and cell phones so far seem to be most of their interest at the end... The fresh milk as normal was brought to us soon after livestock arrived. They arrive of these beasts change the entire enclosure, make it busy for a while, the young guys who were in the bush since morning now they have their chance to whiteness what the luck brought to their home. We hide in our tents give chance for our host to discuss a bit about this Ngai’s (god) miracle. It happened to be enough for my clients in the morning we left without even cook breakfast.
We cycled towards Mt.Kitumbeine (2942m) then avoid it as we take right around the mountain; fortunately, we find water on the foothills. It was 10am but it was hot as midday, the road has been changed and cut by water. With the plan to get at Engaruka which now we could only guess how far the town lies the only thing we could see it rift valley wall. We plan to have lunch in that village. Our assumptions proved wrong as the road gets worse and worse. It turns to be deep sand impossible to cycle, then plains changed to simply desert no trees for a couple of hours. The only thing you see on the horizon is blackish like water which is evaporation from deadly backed land. This was dangerous for my clients it was impossible to cycle for a km without a stop for a drink; the risk was to be hydrated which could lead to serious trouble. We cycled between balanitis trees the only shade. In one shade a Maasai warrior equipped with spear, stick and a long machete the usually carry on their wrist. We chart briefly then we remain speechless as I couldn’t talk much, he stays with us till we continue cycling then he follows us till he couldn’t keep the pace. That kind of rough, dust, tough and pain ride carry on. This is the time when 2km becomes like 10kms, the patient becomes an expensive commodity, there is nothing else we would feel better to do more than lie down and carried by fatigue sleep.
As it was approaching 3pm as we slowly approached the Engaruka “Oasis”; Just a narrow and long green patch stretch from Great Rift Valley wall and after a while disappeared on the thirst plains. This green and the sign of water was a real great relief. Our people are still Maasai; as usual, they stand along and let us pass the sign of respect but also have enough time to stare to stranger people. We pay the negotiable price for culture tourism program with a discount of being such tired poor cyclist. We find semi-cold coke, the cokes which are put in the water. These are considered to be cold which might be true if you travel by road through the plains and find them. We also had the same kind of food as the last lunch with a slight difference which fit according to the distance from modern life. There is a decent camping site up the village just close to the escarpment with running water, privacy and shade what else should we hope for? In the village; the nurse who I knew she prepared a dinner for special order, again for the quality of this area we all consider it far better.
Sand rise instead of sunrise….
We had a huge breakfast at the same place with a surprise of the egg which had almost a full developed chicken in, any way you do need to raise your voice or show you surprise to much as this might be only the begin of wonders; what if you eat such egg? Thanks for such a big breakfast which though didn’t live long as we begin with 15kms of sands which demand no much than you to push your bike slowly. I sorta friendship with herder boys who in turn help to push my loaded bike. Apart from that, the heart doesn’t show any mercy on poor cyclists. About 2hrs since starting I felt the need to change the way we were cycling; Hennie always pushes very strong in the morning start to slow down in midday and straggle in the evening just the same to my 75-year-old Danish cyclist, Bent. Francois could stay in the middle though it happens some time to struggle to finish it. The plan was to make the group take it more ease as the day is long ahead and difficult. I made them stop at pre-school healed under an acacia tree, in the begin it seems inconvenience for them to stop but as we left our bike on the roadside and walk towards this unique school things start to change. It Maasai children made a circle and in the middle is a Maasai girl of about 18-20yrs. Just close lie two Maasai guys. There were also several plastic bottles that contain milk for each child. Also, there are little rocks scatted on the dust ground, these are used by the children to write by arranging them to form alphabets or numbers. On their best of courage from stranger visitors, they sang to us a Kiswahili song which was about a fool who can’t read so he walks with a letter through the village to find someone to read for him. I join in as Francois was busy with filming. This stop apart of change our overconcentration on cycling it proves how it may be different for vehicle safari and bike, it gives us something to talk for a while then as the momentum slowly built up we take the conversation in our mind; the child studying under acacia, No chairs, No walls, learn to write by using stones, What about if branch failed or it rain?
It is now hot, Francois got a flat tire which takes us a reasonable amount of time to fix. The road it rock and sand total uncomfortable for cycling. In midday, we stop and make spaghetti lunch then continue with cycling which now is in the very foothills of Ol Donyo Lengai. Gazelles and Zebras run away from these unusual creatures or Maasai headers who run towards the road. These Maasai run towards us, after greeting they ask for what we have but we can’t give. It is surprising or amazing or sad, the Maasai headers some young of 10-15yrs while some adults run for reasonable distance as they see us then desperately ask for water “Maji, Maji, Maji” while they are showing the sign of drinking. It doesn’t matter what you tell them they will repeat again and again as they run with you. After a while, they will consider themselves not to be lucky enough so they will late you go. The things are the mixed feelings created by this scene, these people are with huge hear but without water to drink, I’m not sure about food because they never ask for. Then come these cyclists with enough bottles on their bikes but each drop is calculated. This cycling in this time was really challenging; what can I do with this you guy running along me telling me he is dying so I should give him water? How did they survivor with their cattle? This was Hinnie’s question which directly I translate to Maasai guy who comes to ask for water as we stop for stretching. He said they walk the cattle to the water every 2 days or so. The water seems to be another precious element because even in the village there was still someone begging for water or a bottle.
The day becomes longer and more challenging as I had a series of flat tires, sand road cut through by water flowing from Lengai. Engaresero village laid about 60km north-west of Engaruka; we passed through two other Maasai’s claiming their collecting village fees, What if every village in the country establishes the same program? The reality is too painful, this money didn’t get as far as the stomach of a few politicians. The second gate is in the middle of nowhere I tell them about my feeling then it was to negotiate. NO COKE STOP. We made it to Engaresero campsite 4pm total exhausted, beaten up but recover after two semi-cold cokes.
The camp is typical tourists place with tented lodge maybe for honey mooned who are the most people I meet here; they come for flamingos, trekk or on transit to and from Serengeti. The camping sites it pleasant with wonderful bird life around. We use the pool to cool down our cells, the swimming pool is sun-heated water pass through from escarpment, it green in the color you need to take extra care as it very slippery without caution note.
Waiters are in Maasai outfit serving what seems far overpriced drinks. The dinner cost 25$per person may be worth having western food middle of gods knows but two potatoes, a small meet pie came after little sweet maize it is a joke for cyclists like us. Francois had a good idea to deal with this situation when our Maasai waiter come no complain, no asking but a suggestion, I place the suggestion and miraculous it works, addition pates of race and beans become real food for the same price.
Pink horizon….
Francois is full of cleaver suggestion; he knew when to present them and how to put them. As a matter of fact, we were not going to do Mt Lengai as it was a plan, Francois says the flamingos are worth for a rest day. From the camp to Lake Natron it about 6km on deep sand and deadly hot, I asked the ride from the drive with two German old couple but he was too scared so I ask Hennie to go and talk with his age group. We had ride to the Lake Natron the home of thousands lesser flamingo as well as great. They are so many to stretch to the horizon hence pink horizon.
We agree to have lunch and dinner in the village, the village is about 10mint. We walking from camp, as we walk we were accompanied by a bunch of Maasai ladies who sales their jewels. They ask what your name each is after 3mint. Or so just to make sure they keep conservation with mzungus. It a real nondescript village, few shirkers and huts give it a category of village unless otherwise, it could be something. We had almost worm coke as we were waiting for our rice mixed with ugali (maize meal) and chicken order to be delivered. This kind of food it already becomes a tradition dish (rice, ugali, beans, meat with relish and occasional greens). The chicken was among of tough chicken I ever hard, Hennie has got more fun story. He had fibula, the part of chicken leg with enough steak, he takes a bite which requires extra effort to get meet out, unfortunately, there was ligament stick on teeth when he pulls it the ligament slid through his fingers painful hit his cheek. For the sake of his old teeth, he pushes the chicken plate to me. Outside the place we sat, the Maasai ladies already open the shop so when we got out we were obliged to pay attention to their product but noon was in the mood of shopping so we walked back. Behind the shops were quickly closed down and about four of them followed us begin that we should buy from them, it was irritating and embracing but there was nothing I could do to these persistence ladies. The one who introduced herself early as Helena was almost singing with an amazing low tone “Buy this for Helena, Buy this for Helena, Buy this for Helena…” Apparently, Hennie’s wife called Helena as well so it was like the song was dedicated to his though he was the one with no interest at all. Actually, their trick walk as Francois bought enough souvenirs from them finally.
The land of Konyagi…
The dinner was in the same place but this time with advance order so this makes things a bit soft. Kilimanjaro beer ease things but not to make a real change of the world around us, our friend camp stuff from Arusha he offers “The spirit of the nation” Konyagi, it might fit on gin made from fruit so far found only in Tanzania so far. Hennie and our new friend are alcoholic while I and Francois we straggle to swallow this strong white liquor. The noise generator comes into life but soon swallowed by reggae music, One love, Together as one, Don’t worry…. are kind of songs plus Konyagi which totally changed our world around and take us to the sky.
Today we have support vehicle, an old Land Rover (Tdi), it will accompany us till we cross Serengeti. With unloaded bikes we were looking forward to a different day, yes it was, we spent almost half riding time to repaired Francois’ flat tire, he now lost his tubeless. We cycled along the valley wall which often pored rocks on the road make it almost impassable. As we start to accent the escarpment it was midday with 40 degrees Celsius. We get in the vehicle and drive for the rest of the day to Wasso in Loliondo district. The Mrs. “Flackefuric” Afrikaan word for earth pig, took us through Great Rift Valley then immerge in the plains which stretch as far as Ngorongoro highland s. It is thick bushes with bit different looking people though dress almost like Maasai. Their bantu people known as Sonjo split during the era of ethnics clashes settle themselves in the middle of maasai and adopt much of their culture and tradition except language. Their now good Maasai revivers, time to time there is break up of clashes. Sonjo uses arrow and bow while Maasai use spear, thinks should be interesting war. By the way, Sonjo being from the latest group of the people there happen to be bit clever to Maasai. One of the fun stories was that Maasai offered scarifies of cattle, got or sheep at Ol Donyo Lengai (the mountain of god) for different purposes such as prayer for rain or stop volcano eruption which they consider to be Ngai hanger. When they leave this gift for their god Sonjo came and takes them away pretend to be their god. So Maasai believe that their sacrifice has been totally accepted.
We stopped for cake in the center of Sonjo land, they’re not real friendly or they don’t know how to interact so when to beg they ask with an expression of demanding and in the absolutely different language.
Our land rover struggle with uphills and scramble with downhills in the almost in the passable road, all these take as to the Maasai town in the middle of total know where. It Maasai town, I call them real Maasai, they are Maasai maybe you have never seen before real warlike. Men/warriors are tall wearing a short toga with beautiful long locks with ridiculous decoration, necklaces the same to the ankle and knee. They paint their brown skin with red okra and cattle oil which give them giraffe’s color. They walk with amazing swagger and look at you as asking did you want to fight? It is a market day the main commodity here is life stork. The whole town is full of people in red toga some on the phone, some carried their got or sheep on their neck as you do carry your young boy and so the scenes go.
We have now accustomed to some fun things came up from time to time in such town, once Hennie asks me “in this part of the world you get a tower in the guest house?” This means he doesn’t demand as he does early in the expedition the same wonders go to the food and others the stuff of such sort.
We drive to the Serengeti entrance gate, and then spend the whole day inside the park for a game drive. Having one day here means we have to go around as much as possible with only short break will saw lots of animals plenty of gazelle, Bunch of elephant herds, lions pride sleep as they are dead, numerous birds just as much as you can imagine. Our enthusiasm couldn’t help us from getting tired, that is what happened in the evening we could hardly keep on talking about animals. As we were driving towards the fort Ikoma gate with the only intention of finding accommodation, unusual scene which awakes our feeling of wonder once again; “ The Migration” , hundreds, and hundreds of wildebeests running on the almost interminable queue. It was a thrilling moment that unexpected will carry on the following day.
Cycle with Wildebeest Migration…
After one and half rest day of driving we now back on our four combined machine, two-wheel and two legs. Ikoma village where we slept is in Gurumeti /Ikorongo game Reserves less then 10km from the few human settlements the wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles are uncountable. I think confused by unusual creatures they began to run randomly on the plains but as monitored they soon form a long queue, when we stopped to let them pass it take them about 30minutes to cross to one side then when we start moving they start again and again. I bent they are a couple of millions covered about 20km of our cycling track. They stretch to the horizons in the short green plains when we find trees and bush and hills comes large harem of Impalas under single male; What unfair distribution? When we finish the game reserves come the chains of villages which insure us enough fuel.
We arrived at the ferry to Ukerewe island in the lunchtime, after waiting for a while we board the ferry which Francois says is the slowest he have ever use. We kept on cycling in the island, after 14km from ferry we arrived at Nasio, the center of Ukerewe islands. We slept in the decent lodge, having shower after two bush camps always accompany by the food we cook ourselves telling each other is delicious while the truth we wouldn’t eat it if we were not starving. Here we had good food and cold beers. The next day we board the boat again crossed to Mwanza at lunchtime we were in the town. We had a chance to enjoy the comfort of home at Hennie’s nephew's works in Mwanza.
We left Mwanza cross by 30mint. Ferry to the other side of the lake then continues with a ride along the shore through chains of the village. These are those villages where every stranger called “my friend-rafiki”, some folks sitting on the roadside hiss just to take your attention.
The terrains and weather still give as big favor; it is cloud, then sunrise the hot quick then followed by short showers. We are still enjoying birdlife with Hennie thanks our fanatic behavior now pulls Francois in, he tried to memorize the names but can’t join in when we through our bikes away chasing rare spices such Palm Nut Vulture. In this region, we have enough fuel fruits, sweet maize, cold coke and traditional dish (rice, ugali, tough chicken/meet). What we couldn’t avoid it crowd, when we stop in the village within 5minutes we were in the middle of crowd. This situation total embarrass for Francois previous he enjoys it as he record the scene but now it becomes annoying.
In the evening we arrived at Nkome, this was out of my expectation; everyone was really exhausting. Adding 2km to Rubondo Island National Park gate was unwelcome suggestion if not to avoid the crowd. As normal in any tourist area, the management of Rubondo Island Np wanted the payment of 40$ per person for camping on the grass without even running water.
We camp just out of the fence with the help of Haji, the ranger on duty. In the morning come the mass spectators, passing by heading to their farm they spend about 3hrs wondering till Francois cleverly tells them “we are tired!” He got in his tent intestinal but pretending he was changing exposes his buttocks on the window. The mass roar for gilt or shame view while they run away from the cause of seen mzungu”s buttock.
Surviving Wooden Visual…
We finish with our breakfast, dismantle our 6 stars hotels, park and disappear. We cycle downhill to Nkome port, it crowded Saladin port. There few medium size wooden boats, ours no yet to arrive but seen these we had a picture of what sort of transport we are going to us. I was given the time when it might arrive but should I really rely on time in this far isolated world? It was hard to find somewhere to sit and wait in such a crowded area which now all the attention is on people on bikes. Fortunately, we lucky find wooden small restaurant/hotel or Mgahawa, it has almost soundproof, Tv and cassette radio which played Celen Dion, Rick martin and West life music so it wasn’t really the isolated world as I thought.
Hennie and Francois they were in the puzzle which they decided to remain with but I could see it in their faces. Listen to such music here in noose small but crowded with the smell of rotten and dried Saladin. If you are those super hygiene folks here you will vomit and you may starve.
Then came our boat it blew two-vehicle honk to announce it arrive, it is a wooden vassal with iron sheet roof to keep passengers out of sun and rain, the passenger sat on wood benches total uncomfortable for the journey of 4hrs. A there generator that supplies the power loud music out of terrible sounding speakers. If that is not enough to keep passengers out of boredom there is TV playing some local film. On top of the roof is captains’ cabin, in this cabin, there is a bunch of captains with qualification of experience and test of surviving skills. It is a small cabin but they are able to share with their friends or relatives who happen to travel to day. Downstair passenger and cargo are mixed together, there were about 20 large sucks of Saladin. These plus passengers it seems like the boat was overloaded but who knows its capacity? It happens that it was unevenly loaded this was when it couldn’t live the shore; it was stark on the mad. It was confirmed now we were in certain danger. The bunch of unorganized boat stuff divides the passengers just by shouting to them, nothing like customer care here. Then cargo, at last, was even distributed so the boat had got balance but still it was heavy, the engine couldn’t pull it back to the deep water. But in such a busy place wasn’t had to get help so the boat was pushed into deep water. After few minutes off shore the engine dead then after less than 5 minutes came into life so we carry on with our almost journey impossible.
It was a long tire someday no matter how we tried to enjoy the beauty of the lake which decorated with several green and rock islands. The stops and speed of the boat uncomfortable benches no chance to take a nap.
At 4pm we made it to Muganza, finally, the “journey impossible” was possible and worth experience. We cycled to the village had lunch then hit the tarmac road for the first time since Arusha though it is for less than 50km. Before dark, we sort beautiful bush camp at the isolated house I the vast valley surrounded by hills with the perfect sunrise the next morning.
The heart of Africa…
The terrains once again it is characterized by rolling hills, it seems as we are slowly acceding. We cycled through the most boundary of the Biharamulo game reserve, the vegetation switch to miombo woodland which always doesn’t support a large population if not at all. No villages and if we come across one it is on top of a hill or downhill out of the main track, simply it wasn’t worth to try. In the afternoon on those rolling hills come the prize of the day, magnificent view vast region on top of it came the rain. We had rain before but those were showers which we could cycle through for 30 to 45 minutes. This one was heavy and because it rains for an extended period of time it becomes cold. My fellows like water or let me say rain, I don’t but I had to cycle through and slowly I stated to enjoy it but today it got them. They were the ones to pull off and find shelter. We cycle to Biharamulo town to find a decent guest house. As normal in this rare chance, you eat well and drink enough. We had dinner in the nearby pub then we give try to Konyagi again. In this part of the world reggae music is among the popular music, you may not enjoy it anywhere else as you may do here. Thanks for Dj who happen to sport us then drop few reggae tracks, just as he knows, I and Hennie climb to the stage and enjoy ourselves followed by locals so we had the honor to open sturdy local part. the part was close to our guest house, it keeps awake me till nearly morning.
We tack cab in the morning the junction then add few kilometers for the consideration of Francois GPS worrying of bandit on the miombo forest. After breakfast, we jump on the bikes and tackle the hills which getting is incising dramatically. At lunchtime we were in Rusumo border post, we stamp ext in Tanzania cross Kagera River and stamp entree in Rwanda. We had lunch at the restaurant overhang on the river valley. The different start with food here it buffee a variety of foods all served together according to you preference, faces are more beautiful proportional built though looking too naïve. If that wasn’t surprise there were more to come, asking information you need to imply about three languages, Kiswahili wasn’t enough, English limited or no at all, French for some literate, Nyarwanda for all. So I remind myself the greetings and few worlds I leant back the days this is best way of starting a conversation for the people who meet strangers occasionally.
The big puzzle we left behind is saying to locals that we were cycling to Kigali or Chigali as it pronounced by locals. When I see different expressions to people I talk with I ask if it is safe the answer was “No” “the mountains are going to kill you”.
Bicycle transportation is well developed here; there are lots of bikes parking waiting for passengers whom I think should be mostly for downhills. Anyways, this is perfect for environmental conservation and it really popular here. As the matter of fact this bicycle transportation seem to provided employment for quick growing population though think logical how many people you have to haul to make sure you collect enough franc. Frankly to say it can’t fulfill ambitions of your generations. However, government didn’t let them free at all; all the bikes are registered and have got plate numbers. Riders have to be a certain uniform which differs from town to town.
We probably inspire these cyclists, a bunch of them join us as we left the border town, cycle with us up hills. We tried to talk random subjects, I found out some of them they just return to their mother country but they were born in the refugee camps. Though our companion didn’t go far that 10km but we real enjoyed the company and this was repeated time to time as we pass through the village till we were near Kigali where motor cycle takes place of bikes.
We managed to cycle up to Kihere and find accommodation just 1hr before as we were still in Tanzania time. Buffe diners with primus were made everything ease; this is fun things for all cyclists as Alastia Humphries and Peter Gostlow. In the next day Francois awake us in Tanzania time then we went for breakfast and complain as it was late for us, there it when I find out we were in different time zone.
The landscape of this country it most stunning future, it is hills; green dotted with red bricks houses. In the valleys it perfect for farming due to its high water table. In the first time as I see the population I couldn’t expect to spot any birds but in this trip, we sport the rare and unique vulture, Palm Nut Vulture.
The day was not different from yesterday, it is still hills which we are slowly get used, and by the way they are decreasing. In the junction town we get decent accommodation, self-contained room with Dstv.
We left in the morning, the road it less challenge, the increasing urban life in one way or other energizes us.
At 2pm we was in the top of the one hill just the street of Kigali but to go in the “centre ville” city center, it another odorous job of downhill with traffic jam and traffic light then uphill with the sun, unusual looking of folks on the sterling in the jam. After reservations for gorilla trek, calculate the days which will be remain it happen that there will be no enough time to make to Bujumbura so we left it pending. From Kigali I will take a bus to Nairobi through Kampala there I will finish with visa of Sudan and Ethiopia then wait to fly to Cairo ready for Tour D’Afrique! Cairo –Cape Town.
Wish to hear about political up to date of recent visited country:
The East Africa countries Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania and two twice Burundi and Rwanda slowly are moving to their dream political and economic federation. Recently they open the free market and movement of their citizens, being citizen from these countries you can work anywhere within. Prior to Ocampo’s 6 where 6 Kenyan politicians have mentioned in the first list to work to ICC to answer their charge concerning 2007-8 “post election clashes” which coast about 5000 lives. Observers are saying if this begins then the long arm of law should be extended to Kagame, Museven, Kony, Mkurunzinza, Bashiri, etc. The observations show that the entire region with the exception of Tanzania, the ruling governments are accused of crime against human rights. Remember that with exceptional Kenya and Tanzania other are military who after size the power try to turn to democracy. Kenya which for long time has been strong and stable according to the wikeleak, it mentioned as a swamp of corruption, drug money in the politics and dynasty in the current politics are the things which slow down the country’s democracy.
Meanwhile, Southern Sudan government which increase it tire with East Africa countries it is on the countdown to the historical moment, referendum, decide remain to be part of northern Sudan!
Begin…
It starts as dinner talk with Hennie in Johannesburg last year then we discuss it in the mail, to the phone and finally we meet and go through maps in the detail as much as possible, weather, geography, security and so on the list continues. The logistics become more complicated and tense as I’m leading the group unsupported to in the most remote areas, imagine how many questions you will have to answer for a Dr. Engineer of 65 years old!
How does someone begin a journey like this one? There should be a lot of approaches. The differences come when it is bicycle safari, through tough areas and challenging regions. Anyways we plan to put as cyclist Helen Lloyds put it “plans are like rules which are there to be broken” .
There are lots of things to consider but with the experienced cyclists Hennie and Francois, I have less to worry; Hennie, holding the record of the oldest person ever riding the Freedom Challenge while Francois did it twice. Do not get fooled by the name “Freedom Challenge”, this is one of the most respectable mountain bike races, by the way, you may not even ever hear about it... Most think about fitness and being able to be number one. Though this count, there are also other things which you will have to consider before making the decision of jumping on it. It takes place during the southern winter, 6 days on the highlands of the Drakensberg in South Africa, no support vehicle; no GPS but only map and compass find your way to the sleeping point! I don’t want to exaggerate but I mean it mountain bike tour which includes so many things more than you may imagine. Please do not hesitate to check out their site www.freedomchallenge.org.za.
I’m also dreaming of it but I’m pretty aware that it is a damn though if I will be able to transform it into reality soon I’ll be the youngest man.
So this is a bit experienced group but the adventure it adventures rarely count on experience, anyway we are doing it for the sake of new experience. After driving from airport we had a nice Indian dinner of chicken barbeque, a variety of bread and verges with enough paper. We took short walking around the town for stretching then last parking. We left Arusha town on the morning of Sunday with the company of Trish, we cycled west north of the town try to avoid tarmac road. As normal or it the character of cyclists I don’t know, we were full of energy enthusiastic. It such a moment when I’m tired I always try to remind myself. The cool breeze wind cooling our body while the green escalating landscapes ease our mind and so we pedal counting down kilometers. At noon the sun becomes ferocious, suck out water from our body result in exhaustion. At some time the climb started cycled uphill towards Mt.Monduli(2660m) it was at its most began. We take a break at it foothill village Monduli Chini (lower Moduli). Rice, beans, and meat with two cokes each does the job. Here Trish could have to say bye. We were pleased to have a female company; she had a challenge from her colleges telling them she is going to cycle. She gets well with the other and engaged in a different conversation this makes her short time more enjoyable, she might be envied for the guys who will do this for more than 19 days, thanks she already knew the price; hills, heat it’s what she experienced so far.
Realty, in the great rift valley basin…
Just after lunch the weather changed H2Oclouds, may be cumulonimbus cover the sky slow down the sun rays pushed by wind now can’t avoid this low-pressure part the rain forest will pull water down, this was a good omen for us. Soon the rain was washing our sweat bodies somehow ease the uphill labor toward the peak of Monduli. As Francois has to push his bike up we had short breaks with Hennie for birds identification, we were now in the mountain rain forest. The secretive Tropical Boubou doesn’t seem to care for our presence, still make it call which give it a.k.a Bottle Bird. These calls vary and eco in the forest and valleys. “Pity my frau” it what Red Chest Cuckoo claims from the high branches. Unfortunately, beautiful Hartlabu’s Turaco didn’t come out for Hennie to see what he see in the book. Now the shower was passing but since we were already high enough we continue enjoying the dump air. We stopped at Monduli Juu (Upper Monduli), refuel out fuel with strongest brand oil in the universe “Coke Cola”. I used this time to drop a few tips about the region; we are in the home of Maasai by the way these are modern Maasai. Monduli Juu is the home of Sokoine, former Tanzania prime minister as well as Monduli Chini Lowasa though in the last government he has to resign accused of corruption.
We were decent to the plains we were amazed by how it was dry, hot, rocky road and middle of nowhere. It is hard to imagine there people live here, the people we come across were Maasai in the meeting under acacia shade. I had a quick view of the scene, some sat on the rocks, some ease lay but tentatively listen to the one who was stand and hardly try to explain something to his fellow who now their attention turned to whites and black who lost the direction. I guess he should be the strong one who can not only face lion but strangers as well. From the group walk towards us greet with the best of his Kiswahili and ask to offer me support. I give him little and simple explanation as much as possible but I could sense how hard he could grasp what I’m telling him. We carry on behind accompanied by expressionless faces of the congregation. I was a bit sad to know that we really break that meeting which I was told was to solve misunderstanding between two families. This scene it a really broad topic that will be discussed for a certain extended period.
I do admire Maasai for their brevity, their willingness to restore their culture, tradition and their uniqueness but my recent discovery of Maasai character particular men being storytellers it a total surprise. Maasai men, I mean the one who already circumcised if you’re not circumcised they do not consider you a man. Soon after circumcision, you will get few life storks from your daddy then you can start to build your flock, the flock size determines the size of your family; wives plus children. So these men apart of counting their beast in the morning and evening, examine who is pregnant who is not they have nothing much to do. They will work across the plains to the meeting place bypassing his neighbors’ boma (the enclosure) talk about is beast as this is the main topic. They will meet under acacia tree somewhere for the rest of the day chewing tobacco and talk whatever they know but most should relate to the beasts. One of my friends tells me these guys are lease even pronouncing words when he failed to listen to what they were saying testing his poor Maasai. So now you can imagine the strange scene of whites on the loaded bikes, there will be lots to talk about their skins, dress, what they eat? Which kind of cow? Et cetera. The fun thing is that they never interrupt each, everyone has a chance to explain whatever he knows, and no one will disagree by the way one does not need even to have evidence.
They do not know about lying and cheating all are the same to them, Isn’t this interesting?
As the sun starts to sink in the west we also start to talk about where we can pass the night, find the best sport it always the agreement but in the bush which look almost the same and the fact that the day become cooler your muscle are total obsessed by rhythm of pedaling it make even harder to make quick decision. The first boma we came across after a couple of hours remand Francois his dream of sleep with Maasai. He is a real enthusiast and an emotional person it will be hard to disagree with his suggestion. We deviated from the main track cycle towards the boma, under acacia tree are some few members of this large compound. I great them in Maasai. After a short conversation with understanding that we need somewhere to sleep one man leads us in the enclosure full of huts than into one of the hut. By sign and a few words from Kiswahili, I told him we just need the ground and not his precious bed with cattle hide. Within 1hr there were reasonable amounts of spectators, they didn’t come bare hands this will be rude for visitors, they brought about enough flies. We strangle to pitch tents as wind blow and through flies. The flies made this place uncomfortable they tend to concentrate on face places like mouth, eyes, ears they really irritate. Hennie I try our best to copy up while Francois straggle with flies spry but all in vain. Then lastly come the fun and final challenge the spectators don’t decrease neither seem to satisfy their curiosity. They could watch Hennie each movement he happed to make, for a couple minutes without even exchange the words. We get busy with cooking then I and Hennie remain out there eating while Francois hid on his tent try to avoid all sorts of unpleasant. The flush lights, binoculars and cell phones so far seem to be most of their interest at the end... The fresh milk as normal was brought to us soon after livestock arrived. They arrive of these beasts change the entire enclosure, make it busy for a while, the young guys who were in the bush since morning now they have their chance to whiteness what the luck brought to their home. We hide in our tents give chance for our host to discuss a bit about this Ngai’s (god) miracle. It happened to be enough for my clients in the morning we left without even cook breakfast.
We cycled towards Mt.Kitumbeine (2942m) then avoid it as we take right around the mountain; fortunately, we find water on the foothills. It was 10am but it was hot as midday, the road has been changed and cut by water. With the plan to get at Engaruka which now we could only guess how far the town lies the only thing we could see it rift valley wall. We plan to have lunch in that village. Our assumptions proved wrong as the road gets worse and worse. It turns to be deep sand impossible to cycle, then plains changed to simply desert no trees for a couple of hours. The only thing you see on the horizon is blackish like water which is evaporation from deadly backed land. This was dangerous for my clients it was impossible to cycle for a km without a stop for a drink; the risk was to be hydrated which could lead to serious trouble. We cycled between balanitis trees the only shade. In one shade a Maasai warrior equipped with spear, stick and a long machete the usually carry on their wrist. We chart briefly then we remain speechless as I couldn’t talk much, he stays with us till we continue cycling then he follows us till he couldn’t keep the pace. That kind of rough, dust, tough and pain ride carry on. This is the time when 2km becomes like 10kms, the patient becomes an expensive commodity, there is nothing else we would feel better to do more than lie down and carried by fatigue sleep.
As it was approaching 3pm as we slowly approached the Engaruka “Oasis”; Just a narrow and long green patch stretch from Great Rift Valley wall and after a while disappeared on the thirst plains. This green and the sign of water was a real great relief. Our people are still Maasai; as usual, they stand along and let us pass the sign of respect but also have enough time to stare to stranger people. We pay the negotiable price for culture tourism program with a discount of being such tired poor cyclist. We find semi-cold coke, the cokes which are put in the water. These are considered to be cold which might be true if you travel by road through the plains and find them. We also had the same kind of food as the last lunch with a slight difference which fit according to the distance from modern life. There is a decent camping site up the village just close to the escarpment with running water, privacy and shade what else should we hope for? In the village; the nurse who I knew she prepared a dinner for special order, again for the quality of this area we all consider it far better.
Sand rise instead of sunrise….
We had a huge breakfast at the same place with a surprise of the egg which had almost a full developed chicken in, any way you do need to raise your voice or show you surprise to much as this might be only the begin of wonders; what if you eat such egg? Thanks for such a big breakfast which though didn’t live long as we begin with 15kms of sands which demand no much than you to push your bike slowly. I sorta friendship with herder boys who in turn help to push my loaded bike. Apart from that, the heart doesn’t show any mercy on poor cyclists. About 2hrs since starting I felt the need to change the way we were cycling; Hennie always pushes very strong in the morning start to slow down in midday and straggle in the evening just the same to my 75-year-old Danish cyclist, Bent. Francois could stay in the middle though it happens some time to struggle to finish it. The plan was to make the group take it more ease as the day is long ahead and difficult. I made them stop at pre-school healed under an acacia tree, in the begin it seems inconvenience for them to stop but as we left our bike on the roadside and walk towards this unique school things start to change. It Maasai children made a circle and in the middle is a Maasai girl of about 18-20yrs. Just close lie two Maasai guys. There were also several plastic bottles that contain milk for each child. Also, there are little rocks scatted on the dust ground, these are used by the children to write by arranging them to form alphabets or numbers. On their best of courage from stranger visitors, they sang to us a Kiswahili song which was about a fool who can’t read so he walks with a letter through the village to find someone to read for him. I join in as Francois was busy with filming. This stop apart of change our overconcentration on cycling it proves how it may be different for vehicle safari and bike, it gives us something to talk for a while then as the momentum slowly built up we take the conversation in our mind; the child studying under acacia, No chairs, No walls, learn to write by using stones, What about if branch failed or it rain?
It is now hot, Francois got a flat tire which takes us a reasonable amount of time to fix. The road it rock and sand total uncomfortable for cycling. In midday, we stop and make spaghetti lunch then continue with cycling which now is in the very foothills of Ol Donyo Lengai. Gazelles and Zebras run away from these unusual creatures or Maasai headers who run towards the road. These Maasai run towards us, after greeting they ask for what we have but we can’t give. It is surprising or amazing or sad, the Maasai headers some young of 10-15yrs while some adults run for reasonable distance as they see us then desperately ask for water “Maji, Maji, Maji” while they are showing the sign of drinking. It doesn’t matter what you tell them they will repeat again and again as they run with you. After a while, they will consider themselves not to be lucky enough so they will late you go. The things are the mixed feelings created by this scene, these people are with huge hear but without water to drink, I’m not sure about food because they never ask for. Then come these cyclists with enough bottles on their bikes but each drop is calculated. This cycling in this time was really challenging; what can I do with this you guy running along me telling me he is dying so I should give him water? How did they survivor with their cattle? This was Hinnie’s question which directly I translate to Maasai guy who comes to ask for water as we stop for stretching. He said they walk the cattle to the water every 2 days or so. The water seems to be another precious element because even in the village there was still someone begging for water or a bottle.
The day becomes longer and more challenging as I had a series of flat tires, sand road cut through by water flowing from Lengai. Engaresero village laid about 60km north-west of Engaruka; we passed through two other Maasai’s claiming their collecting village fees, What if every village in the country establishes the same program? The reality is too painful, this money didn’t get as far as the stomach of a few politicians. The second gate is in the middle of nowhere I tell them about my feeling then it was to negotiate. NO COKE STOP. We made it to Engaresero campsite 4pm total exhausted, beaten up but recover after two semi-cold cokes.
The camp is typical tourists place with tented lodge maybe for honey mooned who are the most people I meet here; they come for flamingos, trekk or on transit to and from Serengeti. The camping sites it pleasant with wonderful bird life around. We use the pool to cool down our cells, the swimming pool is sun-heated water pass through from escarpment, it green in the color you need to take extra care as it very slippery without caution note.
Waiters are in Maasai outfit serving what seems far overpriced drinks. The dinner cost 25$per person may be worth having western food middle of gods knows but two potatoes, a small meet pie came after little sweet maize it is a joke for cyclists like us. Francois had a good idea to deal with this situation when our Maasai waiter come no complain, no asking but a suggestion, I place the suggestion and miraculous it works, addition pates of race and beans become real food for the same price.
Pink horizon….
Francois is full of cleaver suggestion; he knew when to present them and how to put them. As a matter of fact, we were not going to do Mt Lengai as it was a plan, Francois says the flamingos are worth for a rest day. From the camp to Lake Natron it about 6km on deep sand and deadly hot, I asked the ride from the drive with two German old couple but he was too scared so I ask Hennie to go and talk with his age group. We had ride to the Lake Natron the home of thousands lesser flamingo as well as great. They are so many to stretch to the horizon hence pink horizon.
We agree to have lunch and dinner in the village, the village is about 10mint. We walking from camp, as we walk we were accompanied by a bunch of Maasai ladies who sales their jewels. They ask what your name each is after 3mint. Or so just to make sure they keep conservation with mzungus. It a real nondescript village, few shirkers and huts give it a category of village unless otherwise, it could be something. We had almost worm coke as we were waiting for our rice mixed with ugali (maize meal) and chicken order to be delivered. This kind of food it already becomes a tradition dish (rice, ugali, beans, meat with relish and occasional greens). The chicken was among of tough chicken I ever hard, Hennie has got more fun story. He had fibula, the part of chicken leg with enough steak, he takes a bite which requires extra effort to get meet out, unfortunately, there was ligament stick on teeth when he pulls it the ligament slid through his fingers painful hit his cheek. For the sake of his old teeth, he pushes the chicken plate to me. Outside the place we sat, the Maasai ladies already open the shop so when we got out we were obliged to pay attention to their product but noon was in the mood of shopping so we walked back. Behind the shops were quickly closed down and about four of them followed us begin that we should buy from them, it was irritating and embracing but there was nothing I could do to these persistence ladies. The one who introduced herself early as Helena was almost singing with an amazing low tone “Buy this for Helena, Buy this for Helena, Buy this for Helena…” Apparently, Hennie’s wife called Helena as well so it was like the song was dedicated to his though he was the one with no interest at all. Actually, their trick walk as Francois bought enough souvenirs from them finally.
The land of Konyagi…
The dinner was in the same place but this time with advance order so this makes things a bit soft. Kilimanjaro beer ease things but not to make a real change of the world around us, our friend camp stuff from Arusha he offers “The spirit of the nation” Konyagi, it might fit on gin made from fruit so far found only in Tanzania so far. Hennie and our new friend are alcoholic while I and Francois we straggle to swallow this strong white liquor. The noise generator comes into life but soon swallowed by reggae music, One love, Together as one, Don’t worry…. are kind of songs plus Konyagi which totally changed our world around and take us to the sky.
Today we have support vehicle, an old Land Rover (Tdi), it will accompany us till we cross Serengeti. With unloaded bikes we were looking forward to a different day, yes it was, we spent almost half riding time to repaired Francois’ flat tire, he now lost his tubeless. We cycled along the valley wall which often pored rocks on the road make it almost impassable. As we start to accent the escarpment it was midday with 40 degrees Celsius. We get in the vehicle and drive for the rest of the day to Wasso in Loliondo district. The Mrs. “Flackefuric” Afrikaan word for earth pig, took us through Great Rift Valley then immerge in the plains which stretch as far as Ngorongoro highland s. It is thick bushes with bit different looking people though dress almost like Maasai. Their bantu people known as Sonjo split during the era of ethnics clashes settle themselves in the middle of maasai and adopt much of their culture and tradition except language. Their now good Maasai revivers, time to time there is break up of clashes. Sonjo uses arrow and bow while Maasai use spear, thinks should be interesting war. By the way, Sonjo being from the latest group of the people there happen to be bit clever to Maasai. One of the fun stories was that Maasai offered scarifies of cattle, got or sheep at Ol Donyo Lengai (the mountain of god) for different purposes such as prayer for rain or stop volcano eruption which they consider to be Ngai hanger. When they leave this gift for their god Sonjo came and takes them away pretend to be their god. So Maasai believe that their sacrifice has been totally accepted.
We stopped for cake in the center of Sonjo land, they’re not real friendly or they don’t know how to interact so when to beg they ask with an expression of demanding and in the absolutely different language.
Our land rover struggle with uphills and scramble with downhills in the almost in the passable road, all these take as to the Maasai town in the middle of total know where. It Maasai town, I call them real Maasai, they are Maasai maybe you have never seen before real warlike. Men/warriors are tall wearing a short toga with beautiful long locks with ridiculous decoration, necklaces the same to the ankle and knee. They paint their brown skin with red okra and cattle oil which give them giraffe’s color. They walk with amazing swagger and look at you as asking did you want to fight? It is a market day the main commodity here is life stork. The whole town is full of people in red toga some on the phone, some carried their got or sheep on their neck as you do carry your young boy and so the scenes go.
We have now accustomed to some fun things came up from time to time in such town, once Hennie asks me “in this part of the world you get a tower in the guest house?” This means he doesn’t demand as he does early in the expedition the same wonders go to the food and others the stuff of such sort.
We drive to the Serengeti entrance gate, and then spend the whole day inside the park for a game drive. Having one day here means we have to go around as much as possible with only short break will saw lots of animals plenty of gazelle, Bunch of elephant herds, lions pride sleep as they are dead, numerous birds just as much as you can imagine. Our enthusiasm couldn’t help us from getting tired, that is what happened in the evening we could hardly keep on talking about animals. As we were driving towards the fort Ikoma gate with the only intention of finding accommodation, unusual scene which awakes our feeling of wonder once again; “ The Migration” , hundreds, and hundreds of wildebeests running on the almost interminable queue. It was a thrilling moment that unexpected will carry on the following day.
Cycle with Wildebeest Migration…
After one and half rest day of driving we now back on our four combined machine, two-wheel and two legs. Ikoma village where we slept is in Gurumeti /Ikorongo game Reserves less then 10km from the few human settlements the wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles are uncountable. I think confused by unusual creatures they began to run randomly on the plains but as monitored they soon form a long queue, when we stopped to let them pass it take them about 30minutes to cross to one side then when we start moving they start again and again. I bent they are a couple of millions covered about 20km of our cycling track. They stretch to the horizons in the short green plains when we find trees and bush and hills comes large harem of Impalas under single male; What unfair distribution? When we finish the game reserves come the chains of villages which insure us enough fuel.
We arrived at the ferry to Ukerewe island in the lunchtime, after waiting for a while we board the ferry which Francois says is the slowest he have ever use. We kept on cycling in the island, after 14km from ferry we arrived at Nasio, the center of Ukerewe islands. We slept in the decent lodge, having shower after two bush camps always accompany by the food we cook ourselves telling each other is delicious while the truth we wouldn’t eat it if we were not starving. Here we had good food and cold beers. The next day we board the boat again crossed to Mwanza at lunchtime we were in the town. We had a chance to enjoy the comfort of home at Hennie’s nephew's works in Mwanza.
We left Mwanza cross by 30mint. Ferry to the other side of the lake then continues with a ride along the shore through chains of the village. These are those villages where every stranger called “my friend-rafiki”, some folks sitting on the roadside hiss just to take your attention.
The terrains and weather still give as big favor; it is cloud, then sunrise the hot quick then followed by short showers. We are still enjoying birdlife with Hennie thanks our fanatic behavior now pulls Francois in, he tried to memorize the names but can’t join in when we through our bikes away chasing rare spices such Palm Nut Vulture. In this region, we have enough fuel fruits, sweet maize, cold coke and traditional dish (rice, ugali, tough chicken/meet). What we couldn’t avoid it crowd, when we stop in the village within 5minutes we were in the middle of crowd. This situation total embarrass for Francois previous he enjoys it as he record the scene but now it becomes annoying.
In the evening we arrived at Nkome, this was out of my expectation; everyone was really exhausting. Adding 2km to Rubondo Island National Park gate was unwelcome suggestion if not to avoid the crowd. As normal in any tourist area, the management of Rubondo Island Np wanted the payment of 40$ per person for camping on the grass without even running water.
We camp just out of the fence with the help of Haji, the ranger on duty. In the morning come the mass spectators, passing by heading to their farm they spend about 3hrs wondering till Francois cleverly tells them “we are tired!” He got in his tent intestinal but pretending he was changing exposes his buttocks on the window. The mass roar for gilt or shame view while they run away from the cause of seen mzungu”s buttock.
Surviving Wooden Visual…
We finish with our breakfast, dismantle our 6 stars hotels, park and disappear. We cycle downhill to Nkome port, it crowded Saladin port. There few medium size wooden boats, ours no yet to arrive but seen these we had a picture of what sort of transport we are going to us. I was given the time when it might arrive but should I really rely on time in this far isolated world? It was hard to find somewhere to sit and wait in such a crowded area which now all the attention is on people on bikes. Fortunately, we lucky find wooden small restaurant/hotel or Mgahawa, it has almost soundproof, Tv and cassette radio which played Celen Dion, Rick martin and West life music so it wasn’t really the isolated world as I thought.
Hennie and Francois they were in the puzzle which they decided to remain with but I could see it in their faces. Listen to such music here in noose small but crowded with the smell of rotten and dried Saladin. If you are those super hygiene folks here you will vomit and you may starve.
Then came our boat it blew two-vehicle honk to announce it arrive, it is a wooden vassal with iron sheet roof to keep passengers out of sun and rain, the passenger sat on wood benches total uncomfortable for the journey of 4hrs. A there generator that supplies the power loud music out of terrible sounding speakers. If that is not enough to keep passengers out of boredom there is TV playing some local film. On top of the roof is captains’ cabin, in this cabin, there is a bunch of captains with qualification of experience and test of surviving skills. It is a small cabin but they are able to share with their friends or relatives who happen to travel to day. Downstair passenger and cargo are mixed together, there were about 20 large sucks of Saladin. These plus passengers it seems like the boat was overloaded but who knows its capacity? It happens that it was unevenly loaded this was when it couldn’t live the shore; it was stark on the mad. It was confirmed now we were in certain danger. The bunch of unorganized boat stuff divides the passengers just by shouting to them, nothing like customer care here. Then cargo, at last, was even distributed so the boat had got balance but still it was heavy, the engine couldn’t pull it back to the deep water. But in such a busy place wasn’t had to get help so the boat was pushed into deep water. After few minutes off shore the engine dead then after less than 5 minutes came into life so we carry on with our almost journey impossible.
It was a long tire someday no matter how we tried to enjoy the beauty of the lake which decorated with several green and rock islands. The stops and speed of the boat uncomfortable benches no chance to take a nap.
At 4pm we made it to Muganza, finally, the “journey impossible” was possible and worth experience. We cycled to the village had lunch then hit the tarmac road for the first time since Arusha though it is for less than 50km. Before dark, we sort beautiful bush camp at the isolated house I the vast valley surrounded by hills with the perfect sunrise the next morning.
The heart of Africa…
The terrains once again it is characterized by rolling hills, it seems as we are slowly acceding. We cycled through the most boundary of the Biharamulo game reserve, the vegetation switch to miombo woodland which always doesn’t support a large population if not at all. No villages and if we come across one it is on top of a hill or downhill out of the main track, simply it wasn’t worth to try. In the afternoon on those rolling hills come the prize of the day, magnificent view vast region on top of it came the rain. We had rain before but those were showers which we could cycle through for 30 to 45 minutes. This one was heavy and because it rains for an extended period of time it becomes cold. My fellows like water or let me say rain, I don’t but I had to cycle through and slowly I stated to enjoy it but today it got them. They were the ones to pull off and find shelter. We cycle to Biharamulo town to find a decent guest house. As normal in this rare chance, you eat well and drink enough. We had dinner in the nearby pub then we give try to Konyagi again. In this part of the world reggae music is among the popular music, you may not enjoy it anywhere else as you may do here. Thanks for Dj who happen to sport us then drop few reggae tracks, just as he knows, I and Hennie climb to the stage and enjoy ourselves followed by locals so we had the honor to open sturdy local part. the part was close to our guest house, it keeps awake me till nearly morning.
We tack cab in the morning the junction then add few kilometers for the consideration of Francois GPS worrying of bandit on the miombo forest. After breakfast, we jump on the bikes and tackle the hills which getting is incising dramatically. At lunchtime we were in Rusumo border post, we stamp ext in Tanzania cross Kagera River and stamp entree in Rwanda. We had lunch at the restaurant overhang on the river valley. The different start with food here it buffee a variety of foods all served together according to you preference, faces are more beautiful proportional built though looking too naïve. If that wasn’t surprise there were more to come, asking information you need to imply about three languages, Kiswahili wasn’t enough, English limited or no at all, French for some literate, Nyarwanda for all. So I remind myself the greetings and few worlds I leant back the days this is best way of starting a conversation for the people who meet strangers occasionally.
The big puzzle we left behind is saying to locals that we were cycling to Kigali or Chigali as it pronounced by locals. When I see different expressions to people I talk with I ask if it is safe the answer was “No” “the mountains are going to kill you”.
Bicycle transportation is well developed here; there are lots of bikes parking waiting for passengers whom I think should be mostly for downhills. Anyways, this is perfect for environmental conservation and it really popular here. As the matter of fact this bicycle transportation seem to provided employment for quick growing population though think logical how many people you have to haul to make sure you collect enough franc. Frankly to say it can’t fulfill ambitions of your generations. However, government didn’t let them free at all; all the bikes are registered and have got plate numbers. Riders have to be a certain uniform which differs from town to town.
We probably inspire these cyclists, a bunch of them join us as we left the border town, cycle with us up hills. We tried to talk random subjects, I found out some of them they just return to their mother country but they were born in the refugee camps. Though our companion didn’t go far that 10km but we real enjoyed the company and this was repeated time to time as we pass through the village till we were near Kigali where motor cycle takes place of bikes.
We managed to cycle up to Kihere and find accommodation just 1hr before as we were still in Tanzania time. Buffe diners with primus were made everything ease; this is fun things for all cyclists as Alastia Humphries and Peter Gostlow. In the next day Francois awake us in Tanzania time then we went for breakfast and complain as it was late for us, there it when I find out we were in different time zone.
The landscape of this country it most stunning future, it is hills; green dotted with red bricks houses. In the valleys it perfect for farming due to its high water table. In the first time as I see the population I couldn’t expect to spot any birds but in this trip, we sport the rare and unique vulture, Palm Nut Vulture.
The day was not different from yesterday, it is still hills which we are slowly get used, and by the way they are decreasing. In the junction town we get decent accommodation, self-contained room with Dstv.
We left in the morning, the road it less challenge, the increasing urban life in one way or other energizes us.
At 2pm we was in the top of the one hill just the street of Kigali but to go in the “centre ville” city center, it another odorous job of downhill with traffic jam and traffic light then uphill with the sun, unusual looking of folks on the sterling in the jam. After reservations for gorilla trek, calculate the days which will be remain it happen that there will be no enough time to make to Bujumbura so we left it pending. From Kigali I will take a bus to Nairobi through Kampala there I will finish with visa of Sudan and Ethiopia then wait to fly to Cairo ready for Tour D’Afrique! Cairo –Cape Town.
Wish to hear about political up to date of recent visited country:
The East Africa countries Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania and two twice Burundi and Rwanda slowly are moving to their dream political and economic federation. Recently they open the free market and movement of their citizens, being citizen from these countries you can work anywhere within. Prior to Ocampo’s 6 where 6 Kenyan politicians have mentioned in the first list to work to ICC to answer their charge concerning 2007-8 “post election clashes” which coast about 5000 lives. Observers are saying if this begins then the long arm of law should be extended to Kagame, Museven, Kony, Mkurunzinza, Bashiri, etc. The observations show that the entire region with the exception of Tanzania, the ruling governments are accused of crime against human rights. Remember that with exceptional Kenya and Tanzania other are military who after size the power try to turn to democracy. Kenya which for long time has been strong and stable according to the wikeleak, it mentioned as a swamp of corruption, drug money in the politics and dynasty in the current politics are the things which slow down the country’s democracy.
Meanwhile, Southern Sudan government which increase it tire with East Africa countries it is on the countdown to the historical moment, referendum, decide remain to be part of northern Sudan!
