cradle of humanity.
Africa is the most stable of the Earth's landmasses, the most ancient rocks, a fount of life itself and it is also the cradle of humanity. Often the continent characterized by it pristine but paradoxically, since the contact with Europeans it has never being of influence. It is such factors that bring scholars from the developed world to conduct their studies in this open library and laboratory.
acclimatization
On 8th April I with my colleagues assisting four American students with their environmental/ecology studies left Arusha heading to Great Rift Valley. We overnight at Mto wa Mbu town guess with no definitive reason …just merely excuse of acclimatization. Health climate, wonderful social life, stunning views are among things that give this relatively small town a beautiful scenic.
chai
Dinner and breakfast we had here were among highlights, 99% were fresh food from the very farm of this basin….all All available for affordable nonraces prices. The Chai (tea) for stance had a wonderful variety of ingredients which brought about table conversation every one try to cite spices in the chai though none were good expert….. So I call for the cooker who gives out this long ridiculous list; Water from basin's ground springs, milk from D horn Maasai cow, Tanzania tea leaves, ginger from Pare mountains, clove, black paper and other unidentifiable spice from Spices Island, Zanzibar. Cooker concludes by recommending a spice tour in Zanzibar. Chai explanations' was far valuable enlightenment remain let 19th century explores narration to monopolies;
…The interior is mostly magnificent and healthy of unspeakable richness...
Cameron the first mzungu known to cross the continent from the Indian Ocean to Atlantic wrote. This is great today contradiction claim of a poorest African country.
As we enjoyed our chai at Red Banana Café which found in the very same premises with Mto wa Mbu culture tourism offices….another day highlight come across. A sort of scorpion fanatics join our chai conversation and switch it to its ambition. It wasn't empty words he took us who were keen and ready for an adventure into the room where he kept about three scorpions spp. His random excitement and emotion explanations include practical as well. By timing he holds the poison sticking tail of the large black scorpion, the scorpion reacts by biting him by two from legs. The bit was persistence so the explanations continue with a scorpion on his hand. The explanations were concluded by reference for more fanatics and fame seekers on the internet. For about 2 and a half hours we stayed there the scorpion to have no idea of losing its bite.
start our adventure
The next morning we start our adventure by loading hired two donkeys. Unfortunately, poor two donkeys who are able to carry up to 50kg couldn't carry large boxes of foodstuff. The 17km walking safaris started at 9:30am, each one carried his/her belongings and camping equipment on a large backpacker. This rare scene had wide explanations by local folks. I thought. Some could say the vehicle of these mzungus maybe had break down while others with little ideal could say no this is how mzungus do sometimes they do even for a tall mountain such as Kilimanjaro. Young Maasai headers run across the plain about a kilometer just come close to rare pale mzungu skin. Those with little curious they just shout Hello! Hello! Hello! No matter if you answer or not. Hello turned to be chorus which is merely deep emotion contact between local folks enjoys luck rare spot of mzungu hat, sunglass, hiking shoes large backpacker, What might be stranger Look!. ..opposite mzungu enjoyed exotic scenery and semi necked human who never feel embarrassed.
Kori Bustard
The expanse, magnificent, stunning views grabbed our attention and concentrations… just turned our neck like Kori Bustards or someone doing yoga stretching which allows our eyes to meet huge long straight erected Great Rift Valley wall with it undulating pulled eyes as much as they can see. Opposite the wall lies northward stretch Ol Kerii escarpments which host Losimingiro, Burko mountains and several other hills Kitumbeine and Gilai peak (28-28 000m)father north as it goes parallel the wall. We walked in this vast savannah basin like with all the fantasy feeling made our brain forget the physical process of walking with such large backpackers… it was until we run out of fuel…feeling hungry. We had our lunch and nap under large flat-top acacia which its shed and gently plains breeze was like an Island for those 13th-century sailors who survived on wreaked
Ship.
Menya Tajiri or Oltimbua Boma
Despite all adventurous excitement first day was a bit demanding until lunchtime we were already covered about 3/4 of our journey. After 3 hours of walking or so we arrived at our planned camping which situated in the Maasai boma known as "Menya Tajiri or Oltimbua Boma". Here we greeted seriously looked old and middle-aged men, happy woman, and children as well as lambs, got cow and thousand flies. We just surprised our hosts and their neighbors by our few lent Maasai words. We erected our tents under acacia trees which fantastic sunrise from Losimingiro mountain and set behind the valley walls its undulating raise to looked like subways on the sky.
On the morning of 10th after what sounds like suppressed rich breakfast out of expectation of such an academic trip..the cooker, Okuli a.k.a Chakuli was that kind of guy who can change impossible to be possible. Official study and data collection started by splitting into the two main groups. Eric and Molly doing transact walking with fun Maasai guide to whom I owe respect heard north while I with hip hop sort of birds expert Alex heading south with Kevin and Annie who were doing the plotting. We planned to walk towards escarpment it was close enough but flood plains made it longer.
I'm not hash, this is Africa
Tallgrass made us do wrong assumption of distance, we walked on the flood with water sometimes reached up kneels. In front as pathfinder I turned back time to time to ask my fellow "Are you Okay?, "Sure..we are" they replayed briefly but their face was speaking loud "What is the f***k you man thinking to make us cross the ocean by feet" I remark, "never mind this is Africa" I conclude. After about 45 minutes of walking on water, we arrived on the rice paddies which was more easy walking on. Finally, we arrived on the edge of yellow back acacia forest "fever trees". Here we did a couple of plotting and follow all scientific procedures though they sound ridiculous sometimes. This forest situated on the foot of the valley wall is extended feeding range for Ngorongoro or Manyara elephant herds as it becomes clear when we found fresh footprints. Agriculture communities attracted by fertile soil stayed for the expanse of elephant as one woman found us and warn us about the risk emphasize it with the story of a woman who lost her life to the charged elephants less than a month.
more than kind!
On the 14th we break our first camp, walked across the plains sometimes without the trails. We had a rest outside solitary Maasai boma. Onesimo charted the hostess who comes out due to our present since Maasai can only ease by elder name, Onesimo a resident of Engaruka knew more than half bomas on these plains whose most of owner migrated from Engaruka. Our temporary hosts they were more than welcome, within ten minutes we were drinking freshly boiled milk… this was more than kind!
the man wore red blankets with a hoe on his hands...
Apart from amazing landscape views there was a day strange scene; a man wore red blankets with a hoe on his hand. It is common to see these man standing with long sticks watch after large herds of cattle, goats, and sheep but with natural dynamics; carbohydrates demands, availability of patch of arable soil and challenged by farmers communities are likely factors pushed this man to attack the harder surface of land with 25.27..30 blows of hand hoe to cover square miter. It is labor demand to remove perennial weeds and short shrubs that grow with grains.
Mando line
We arrived at the camp at lunchtime after our spaghetti lunch we left to Selela by the free ride of old but strong enough land rover known as "mando line" carried about trice its capacity. Since the owner is the decent Maasai guy couldn't dare to left any Maasai going to the market…the mando line entered and passed through the crowded red market which four identical mzungus took its attention.
I do smell like solitary Buffalo
The main aim of going Selela was to get a shower which since we left Mto wa Mbu was just by the can. Alex alleged "As the day passed by without shower my smile is getting worse …from male got now I smell like solitary Buffalo" apart of a laugh not asked for an explanation since it is normal for this guy to speak odd and funny things. Think about the smell of solitary buffalo. Since the bucket shower was one by one system cold coke from paraffin fridge took place. In the late, afternoon we left Selela walking back to the camp situated about 3km northeast which means long way walking without sweating and smell like buffalo again!
Ndorosi camp
The last day at "Ndorosi camp" was among the joy an awestruck morning as huge yellow ball rise from the east, mix and change the colors on the sky bring the light to the vast plains. In this time we congregated under acacia near large termite for a cup of coffee which made the time more than sensation. We started walking 8am one hour late due to the agreed time, four hours walking was very exciting as we walk on the plains, bush and cross the river as it requires us to remove shoes. Large fascinating mammals such giraffes, zebras and gazelles were close spotted as we walk past them. The worth spot was that of rare "giraffe gazelle" Gerenuk. We had our lunch at the bush picnic in the river valley flowing from escarpment towards dry and thirsty plains. Siesta took place as we sat on the riverside listen to the bird's calls with water in the background which created wonderful rhythm. I lost my patient observing this precious subject, slowly I removed my clothes and throw myself into the pool.
Mbuko river side bush camp
The "Mbuko river side bush camp" was just down in the same river where it become more flat. Water as well as fire wood for camp fire was plenty together with the fact that the camp was just on the bush of no where made this camp to rank high among favorites camps.
Maasai morani
The study and data collection took place on all four cardinal directions the long and arduous one being the one which we had to hike uphill without success try to reach valley foot which here gives rise to a certain peak hence lost its common future. We walked on the open bush where we disturb impala rums and dick dick couples whose in turn jump and run randomly while baboons troop respond by backing. As we walk further and further there were threatening feelings due to the bound possibility to meet large carnivorous. I wished I was equipped with spear-like Maasai morani (warriors) but confronting hungry lions could be another story. I told Annie who wasn't ready to leave the sweet life that, "eaten by a lion will bring fame due to the wide story coverage" but she throws out my comments as she says "What the fame will do for a dead person?"
Sadly but with little option 24th "Mbuko riverside bush camp" was broken. This day 12km walking was just sheer surprise as it covered in the relatively short time but not without exhaust as clearly seen here
largest tourists hotel ever in south sahara
The study and data collection was from our camp situated at Engaruka Juu (upper). Our method of plot piece of land here in the well-populated area compare to where we have been was challenged. Wherever we plot the land the owner or other curious folks pop in and bomb us with questions, we just slow them down as we greet them by our lent Maasai then explanation accordingly "These Mzungus work for World Bank they plan to build largest tourists hotel even in south sahara so all maasai will get job as guards" I just tease a maasai who asked me why I'm selling his land to mzungu without his consultation.
African lost city
Engaruka is pretty populated compared to normal maasai village, the population is sustained primarily by agriculture which is well adopted here followed by livestock keeping. Today Engaruka is only a glimpse of an imaginable oldest African lost city. Leakey estimated there were about 6300 stones huts on slopes as well as 500 in the valley. Irrigation terrace was so intensive and extended which we couldn't avoid plotting on its remains. Engaruka said to reach its height in the 14th-17th century (Pre-medieval and medieval centuries) when the large part of the continent experience high rainfall. Further study on the area made it clear that Engaruka inhabited and maintain for a long time by successive groups, mention, Bantu and Afri-Asiatic (Cushitic) agriculturalist and pastoralist groups as well as recently northerner Nilo-tic header. The hereto maasai adopt more small scale farming which they inherit from previous groups whose may abandoned the area due to insufficient rains. Instead of maintaining the city's current inhabitant seem to carry on with a nomadic way of life by building small conical thatch madhouse which the only expense is time thus people here have plenty.
The relative gently slopes allowed the water flow from volcanic Ngorongoro highlands to be channeled for irrigation in the rich alluvial deposit soil as the aerial view from escarpment reveal. Today the remain water channel is less inhabited but intensively exploited by small scale farms. These farms often need to be fenced to keep animals out. Such demands were to some extent and still are environment deteriorate as farmers chopped down particular thorn trees or shrubs like Acacia, Balanite and Comiphora. This kind of tree/shrubs spends ages to build up their special adaptation to survive hence make contribute to the wheel of life in these plains. Thanks for the invention of using Jacktropher seed to produce bio-diesel which run diesel engine here and give electrical light this remote village. The easy growing Jacktropher plaint is planted around the farms and bomas replacing thorn trees/shrubs. Availability of grazing area and semi-permanent water, hormonally diversify social activities creating unique social-economy leave the green patch on the vast dry Savannah pains remain unique in the universe.
mixed feelings
Four nights passed like flush then the time to leave an amazing life which started to absolve as slowly. On the 29th morning, we board the only bus to Mto wa Mbu, it was a typical tense moment, everyone occupied by mixed feelings. Perhaps 48% was the only a person willingness to go back to what was sound like a hectic and depressing world but... Who created such situation isn't we ourselves? While the entire passengers no matter standing or uncomfortable sitting we chatting we were pretending meditating our eyes fixed on sunrise bush and landscape. Talk rise only when rare scenes like when large mammals run parallel the bus. The bus adventure was awesome as normal NO HURRY IN AFRICA take you time when you stop but 120km/h when driving.
We pulled off at Mto wa Mbu without wasting time we went to Red Banana for Chai….Karibu!
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