Finding the lost migratory white stoke
The rough plan to venture out to where the idle mind can be active as observing and guide by nature was not yet a conferment course of several facts. The blind and self-assignment to find the lost migratory white stock was strong reason enough to reinforce this adventure. This white stock named Gertrud the last breed in north German before leaving at the begin of 2010 winter to long journey almost flew half of the world to reach East Africa and return back to Europe for breading and repeat the cycle. Gertrud was among other researched stock by Birds Network, German-based NABU and here in Tanzania WCST as a local partner.Unfortunately, the organization branch with an excuse that I haven’t comply yet failed to fund this trip. I borrowed GPS which was among crucial equipment on this trip from Conservation Resource Center. Thanks, Howard for great support of insect location longitude and latitude in our old GPS. My gas stove seemed to allow me to boil coffee and spaghetti, tent and sleeping equipment was ready as usual.
I left Arusha by board bus at the small central bus stand, heading towards west then turn to the west –north at Makuyuni town where Great Rift Valley flow becomes visible. The low land of rift valley flow characterized by flat terrains with acacia bushes. I got off at my favorite off shower town of Lake Manyara basin, Mto Wa Mbu town (mosquito creak). Here I had to wait for small old track delivering products to remote maasai village, Engaruka. There is only one bus that leaves Mto wa Mbu in the evening driving through the bumping track for about 55km to Engaruka. The adventure starts from my favorite town of Mto wa mbu where I board small cargo track instead of only one over the full bus. I decided to travel with this small track avoiding the bus which had more stand passengers than those who sat. I knew inside of it I will have to tolerate tobacco saliva which maasai split all the time as they smell it then chew it. This makes them being high all the time.
The small track offered a magnificent view as we drove through the rift valley flow alongside it huge wall. These savannah plains are doted by maasai bomas with their cattle watched after by young dust full who often wave to us enthusiastic no matter we replay back or no. Travel in this remote maasai area it adventures on itself, old small track produces a lot of black smoke mixed with dust you can't see where you come from. Young drive wanted to show his best on the bumping gravel rough road which left my buttock with two days of pain. We passed at Selela village where drive had to stop, he accelerates the engine without a move while making a lot of horn, this causes almost the whole village to come out. The passengers and work of this track are out of time in such stop it takes about 45 minutes to resume the journey just talking, smoke and drink. We left the village passed maasai elders sat under baobab trees chewing tobacco while discussing something.
After 55km we reached at Engaruka maasai village where I overnight in the deserted camp. Offered free camp owner/manager Mr.Mathayo who still remembered me since my last visit, when I was leading Cross Tanzania Cycling Expedition. After making my spaghetti I dinner with disturbing night mouths attracted by my flashlight, I crawl into a tent and sleep. I was awoken with high pitch noise of a hundred of weaver birds nesting on the tree which I camp under.
This was walking day on the plains as there was no sign of transport from here to Engaresero about 60km further interior. In the savannah plains, I was me with different wild animals such as gazelles, wildebeests, zebras, ostrich, and birds in the scatted flat-top acacia where I feel sort sharing the working. Few young maasai with their cattle on the horizon.
These animals when the smell or saw me they run away but amazing was when occasion vehicle just 3 I counter for whole day passed they just stare on them only. The walk was sort of meditation as for several hours I was into real uninterrupted nature just sound of wind, vast plains, animal, and mountains tried to think about myself but nothing was serious with deep pain than bright sun which I felt like moved a bit down to the earth for few kilometers, bunt legs and heavy backpacker made the most of self incarnation. At 1pm I decide to have a nap under fat top acacia after realize I can’t push it more with this brilliant sun burn like electrical iron.
I Walk for the entire day, I got a free ride at the evening for 20km which add on the day distance 60km. Overnight at the hot basin of Lake natron, I sort free camping at moivaro lodges. Manger whoever reception maasai gentle man with his blankets and enough bracelets on his body perhaps to entertain tourists, more wife? Beauty? I don’t know, a lot to learn. He wondered in the first place when I told him I'm searching for “Ndege”, Ndege means bird and airplane/flight in Swahili. After long explanations, he claims to know those bird and add that when he saw them last time he fond other with something on they heard looked like antennae which I come to find out later was GPS transmitter. With such sensation conversation and the fact that I am working for a non-profit company free camp was granted.
I was awakened by maasai guy who will be my guide from here at 3am ready to start the trek. We trek for the whole day, led by GPS in someplace need us to make long loping due to impassable valleys. We fond maasai boma for refugee when golden huge ball like a sink a bit low on the west. Live the sky dark dominated by uncountable stars took us into deep rest if the night. Trek continues early in the morning, we left the boma at 4am, the golden ball on its mystery journey from east to west met use on the middle of the bush. Visible and invisible creatures sing to celebrate it come back, ooh my mind went out of conscious absolutely failed to control my emotion which intoxicates my soul and body by the amazing radiation. I throw myself into this ceremony which releases my tense and made the glands to stop produce stress. I forget what I was up for absolutely! Merely enjoyed the walk and made most of the moment.
On the way we found the evacuated bomas which now my colleague told me they are the season bomas as the land was for drought reserve. He showed me eland fesses which are just like gazelles pellets. As he anticipated few minutes we saw a huge gazelle like mammals, Eland. Few kilometers from the destination my beloved hiking shoes worn off, the sole left the still strong leather.
At 12am we reached the destination. I search the area for a few minutes before my heard bust with real joy when I sport the dead bird on the top of acacia. We made our way back and reach at the basin 10pm, as my shoes worn off, my lags were badly burnt. I took one day off and spend it observing human life on this small village. Find out apart of touristic potential the area has litter to support these pastoralists maasai to make quality life. I got another track which was going without clutch this made the way back to Mto wa mbu to be another adventure.
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