Wednesday, October 9, 2019

Arusha-Kigali

Here goes the saga of bicycle tour from Arusha Tanzania to Kigali Rwanda, I’m sorry that few will be able to go through all due to my frailer of make it short, enjoy it as it is my pleasure to share with you.


Begin…
It starts as dinner talk with Hennie in Johannesburg last year then we discuss it in the mail, to the phone and finally we meet and go through maps in the detail as much as possible, weather, geography, security and so on the list continues. The logistics become more complicated and tense as I’m leading the group unsupported to in the most remote areas, imagine how many questions you will have to answer for a Dr. Engineer of 65 years old!

How does someone begin a journey like this one? There should be a lot of approaches. The differences come when it is bicycle safari, through tough areas and challenging regions. Anyways we plan to put as cyclist Helen Lloyds put it “plans are like rules which are there to be broken” .


There are lots of things to consider but with the experienced cyclists Hennie and Francois, I have less to worry; Hennie, holding the record of the oldest person ever riding the Freedom Challenge while Francois did it twice. Do not get fooled by the name “Freedom Challenge”, this is one of the most respectable mountain bike races, by the way, you may not even ever hear about it... Most think about fitness and being able to be number one. Though this count, there are also other things which you will have to consider before making the decision of jumping on it. It takes place during the southern winter, 6 days on the highlands of the Drakensberg in South Africa, no support vehicle; no GPS but only map and compass find your way to the sleeping point! I don’t want to exaggerate but I mean it mountain bike tour which includes so many things more than you may imagine. Please do not hesitate to check out their site www.freedomchallenge.org.za.

I’m also dreaming of it but I’m pretty aware that it is a damn though if I will be able to transform it into reality soon I’ll be the youngest man.
So this is a bit experienced group but the adventure it adventures rarely count on experience, anyway we are doing it for the sake of new experience. After driving from airport we had a nice Indian dinner of chicken barbeque, a variety of bread and verges with enough paper. We took short walking around the town for stretching then last parking. We left Arusha town on the morning of Sunday with the company of Trish, we cycled west north of the town try to avoid tarmac road. As normal or it the character of cyclists I don’t know, we were full of energy enthusiastic. It such a moment when I’m tired I always try to remind myself. The cool breeze wind cooling our body while the green escalating landscapes ease our mind and so we pedal counting down kilometers. At noon the sun becomes ferocious, suck out water from our body result in exhaustion. At some time the climb started cycled uphill towards Mt.Monduli(2660m) it was at its most began. We take a break at it foothill village Monduli Chini (lower Moduli). Rice, beans, and meat with two cokes each does the job. Here Trish could have to say bye. We were pleased to have a female company; she had a challenge from her colleges telling them she is going to cycle. She gets well with the other and engaged in a different conversation this makes her short time more enjoyable, she might be envied for the guys who will do this for more than 19 days, thanks she already knew the price; hills, heat it’s what she experienced so far.

Realty, in the great rift valley basin…
Just after lunch the weather changed H2Oclouds, may be cumulonimbus cover the sky slow down the sun rays pushed by wind now can’t avoid this low-pressure part the rain forest will pull water down, this was a good omen for us. Soon the rain was washing our sweat bodies somehow ease the uphill labor toward the peak of Monduli. As Francois has to push his bike up we had short breaks with Hennie for birds identification, we were now in the mountain rain forest. The secretive Tropical Boubou doesn’t seem to care for our presence, still make it call which give it a.k.a Bottle Bird. These calls vary and eco in the forest and valleys. “Pity my frau” it what Red Chest Cuckoo claims from the high branches. Unfortunately, beautiful Hartlabu’s Turaco didn’t come out for Hennie to see what he see in the book. Now the shower was passing but since we were already high enough we continue enjoying the dump air. We stopped at Monduli Juu (Upper Monduli), refuel out fuel with strongest brand oil in the universe “Coke Cola”. I used this time to drop a few tips about the region; we are in the home of Maasai by the way these are modern Maasai. Monduli Juu is the home of Sokoine, former Tanzania prime minister as well as Monduli Chini Lowasa though in the last government he has to resign accused of corruption.

We were decent to the plains we were amazed by how it was dry, hot, rocky road and middle of nowhere. It is hard to imagine there people live here, the people we come across were Maasai in the meeting under acacia shade. I had a quick view of the scene, some sat on the rocks, some ease lay but tentatively listen to the one who was stand and hardly try to explain something to his fellow who now their attention turned to whites and black who lost the direction. I guess he should be the strong one who can not only face lion but strangers as well. From the group walk towards us greet with the best of his Kiswahili and ask to offer me support. I give him little and simple explanation as much as possible but I could sense how hard he could grasp what I’m telling him. We carry on behind accompanied by expressionless faces of the congregation. I was a bit sad to know that we really break that meeting which I was told was to solve misunderstanding between two families. This scene it a really broad topic that will be discussed for a certain extended period.


I do admire Maasai for their brevity, their willingness to restore their culture, tradition and their uniqueness but my recent discovery of Maasai character particular men being storytellers it a total surprise. Maasai men, I mean the one who already circumcised if you’re not circumcised they do not consider you a man. Soon after circumcision, you will get few life storks from your daddy then you can start to build your flock, the flock size determines the size of your family; wives plus children. So these men apart of counting their beast in the morning and evening, examine who is pregnant who is not they have nothing much to do. They will work across the plains to the meeting place bypassing his neighbors’ boma (the enclosure) talk about is beast as this is the main topic. They will meet under acacia tree somewhere for the rest of the day chewing tobacco and talk whatever they know but most should relate to the beasts. One of my friends tells me these guys are lease even pronouncing words when he failed to listen to what they were saying testing his poor Maasai. So now you can imagine the strange scene of whites on the loaded bikes, there will be lots to talk about their skins, dress, what they eat? Which kind of cow? Et cetera. The fun thing is that they never interrupt each, everyone has a chance to explain whatever he knows, and no one will disagree by the way one does not need even to have evidence.

 They do not know about lying and cheating all are the same to them, Isn’t this interesting?
As the sun starts to sink in the west we also start to talk about where we can pass the night, find the best sport it always the agreement but in the bush which look almost the same and the fact that the day become cooler your muscle are total obsessed by rhythm of pedaling it make even harder to make quick decision. The first boma we came across after a couple of hours remand Francois his dream of sleep with Maasai. He is a real enthusiast and an emotional person it will be hard to disagree with his suggestion. We deviated from the main track cycle towards the boma, under acacia tree are some few members of this large compound. I great them in Maasai. After a short conversation with understanding that we need somewhere to sleep one man leads us in the enclosure full of huts than into one of the hut. By sign and a few words from Kiswahili, I told him we just need the ground and not his precious bed with cattle hide. Within 1hr there were reasonable amounts of spectators, they didn’t come bare hands this will be rude for visitors, they brought about enough flies. We strangle to pitch tents as wind blow and through flies. The flies made this place uncomfortable they tend to concentrate on face places like mouth, eyes, ears they really irritate. Hennie I try our best to copy up while Francois straggle with flies spry but all in vain. Then lastly come the fun and final challenge the spectators don’t decrease neither seem to satisfy their curiosity. They could watch Hennie each movement he happed to make, for a couple minutes without even exchange the words. We get busy with cooking then I and Hennie remain out there eating while Francois hid on his tent try to avoid all sorts of unpleasant. The flush lights, binoculars and cell phones so far seem to be most of their interest at the end... The fresh milk as normal was brought to us soon after livestock arrived. They arrive of these beasts change the entire enclosure, make it busy for a while, the young guys who were in the bush since morning now they have their chance to whiteness what the luck brought to their home. We hide in our tents give chance for our host to discuss a bit about this Ngai’s (god) miracle. It happened to be enough for my clients in the morning we left without even cook breakfast.


We cycled towards Mt.Kitumbeine (2942m) then avoid it as we take right around the mountain; fortunately, we find water on the foothills. It was 10am but it was hot as midday, the road has been changed and cut by water. With the plan to get at Engaruka which now we could only guess how far the town lies the only thing we could see it rift valley wall. We plan to have lunch in that village. Our assumptions proved wrong as the road gets worse and worse. It turns to be deep sand impossible to cycle, then plains changed to simply desert no trees for a couple of hours. The only thing you see on the horizon is blackish like water which is evaporation from deadly backed land. This was dangerous for my clients it was impossible to cycle for a km without a stop for a drink; the risk was to be hydrated which could lead to serious trouble. We cycled between balanitis trees the only shade. In one shade a Maasai warrior equipped with spear, stick and a long machete the usually carry on their wrist. We chart briefly then we remain speechless as I couldn’t talk much, he stays with us till we continue cycling then he follows us till he couldn’t keep the pace. That kind of rough, dust, tough and pain ride carry on. This is the time when 2km becomes like 10kms, the patient becomes an expensive commodity, there is nothing else we would feel better to do more than lie down and carried by fatigue sleep.


As it was approaching 3pm as we slowly approached the Engaruka “Oasis”; Just a narrow and long green patch stretch from Great Rift Valley wall and after a while disappeared on the thirst plains. This green and the sign of water was a real great relief. Our people are still Maasai; as usual, they stand along and let us pass the sign of respect but also have enough time to stare to stranger people. We pay the negotiable price for culture tourism program with a discount of being such tired poor cyclist. We find semi-cold coke, the cokes which are put in the water. These are considered to be cold which might be true if you travel by road through the plains and find them. We also had the same kind of food as the last lunch with a slight difference which fit according to the distance from modern life. There is a decent camping site up the village just close to the escarpment with running water, privacy and shade what else should we hope for? In the village; the nurse who I knew she prepared a dinner for special order, again for the quality of this area we all consider it far better.

Sand rise instead of sunrise….
We had a huge breakfast at the same place with a surprise of the egg which had almost a full developed chicken in, any way you do need to raise your voice or show you surprise to much as this might be only the begin of wonders; what if you eat such egg? Thanks for such a big breakfast which though didn’t live long as we begin with 15kms of sands which demand no much than you to push your bike slowly. I sorta friendship with herder boys who in turn help to push my loaded bike. Apart from that, the heart doesn’t show any mercy on poor cyclists. About 2hrs since starting I felt the need to change the way we were cycling; Hennie always pushes very strong in the morning start to slow down in midday and straggle in the evening just the same to my 75-year-old Danish cyclist, Bent. Francois could stay in the middle though it happens some time to struggle to finish it. The plan was to make the group take it more ease as the day is long ahead and difficult. I made them stop at pre-school healed under an acacia tree, in the begin it seems inconvenience for them to stop but as we left our bike on the roadside and walk towards this unique school things start to change. It Maasai children made a circle and in the middle is a Maasai girl of about 18-20yrs. Just close lie two Maasai guys. There were also several plastic bottles that contain milk for each child. Also, there are little rocks scatted on the dust ground, these are used by the children to write by arranging them to form alphabets or numbers. On their best of courage from stranger visitors, they sang to us a Kiswahili song which was about a fool who can’t read so he walks with a letter through the village to find someone to read for him. I join in as Francois was busy with filming. This stop apart of change our overconcentration on cycling it proves how it may be different for vehicle safari and bike, it gives us something to talk for a while then as the momentum slowly built up we take the conversation in our mind; the child studying under acacia, No chairs, No walls, learn to write by using stones, What about if branch failed or it rain?


It is now hot, Francois got a flat tire which takes us a reasonable amount of time to fix. The road it rock and sand total uncomfortable for cycling. In midday, we stop and make spaghetti lunch then continue with cycling which now is in the very foothills of Ol Donyo Lengai. Gazelles and Zebras run away from these unusual creatures or Maasai headers who run towards the road. These Maasai run towards us, after greeting they ask for what we have but we can’t give. It is surprising or amazing or sad, the Maasai headers some young of 10-15yrs while some adults run for reasonable distance as they see us then desperately ask for water “Maji, Maji, Maji” while they are showing the sign of drinking. It doesn’t matter what you tell them they will repeat again and again as they run with you. After a while, they will consider themselves not to be lucky enough so they will late you go. The things are the mixed feelings created by this scene, these people are with huge hear but without water to drink, I’m not sure about food because they never ask for. Then come these cyclists with enough bottles on their bikes but each drop is calculated. This cycling in this time was really challenging; what can I do with this you guy running along me telling me he is dying so I should give him water? How did they survivor with their cattle? This was Hinnie’s question which directly I translate to Maasai guy who comes to ask for water as we stop for stretching. He said they walk the cattle to the water every 2 days or so. The water seems to be another precious element because even in the village there was still someone begging for water or a bottle.


The day becomes longer and more challenging as I had a series of flat tires, sand road cut through by water flowing from Lengai. Engaresero village laid about 60km north-west of Engaruka; we passed through two other Maasai’s claiming their collecting village fees, What if every village in the country establishes the same program? The reality is too painful, this money didn’t get as far as the stomach of a few politicians. The second gate is in the middle of nowhere I tell them about my feeling then it was to negotiate. NO COKE STOP. We made it to Engaresero campsite 4pm total exhausted, beaten up but recover after two semi-cold cokes.


The camp is typical tourists place with tented lodge maybe for honey mooned who are the most people I meet here; they come for flamingos, trekk or on transit to and from Serengeti. The camping sites it pleasant with wonderful bird life around. We use the pool to cool down our cells, the swimming pool is sun-heated water pass through from escarpment, it green in the color you need to take extra care as it very slippery without caution note.


Waiters are in Maasai outfit serving what seems far overpriced drinks. The dinner cost 25$per person may be worth having western food middle of gods knows but two potatoes, a small meet pie came after little sweet maize it is a joke for cyclists like us. Francois had a good idea to deal with this situation when our Maasai waiter come no complain, no asking but a suggestion, I place the suggestion and miraculous it works, addition pates of race and beans become real food for the same price.


Pink horizon….
Francois is full of cleaver suggestion; he knew when to present them and how to put them. As a matter of fact, we were not going to do Mt Lengai as it was a plan, Francois says the flamingos are worth for a rest day. From the camp to Lake Natron it about 6km on deep sand and deadly hot, I asked the ride from the drive with two German old couple but he was too scared so I ask Hennie to go and talk with his age group. We had ride to the Lake Natron the home of thousands lesser flamingo as well as great. They are so many to stretch to the horizon hence pink horizon.


We agree to have lunch and dinner in the village, the village is about 10mint. We walking from camp, as we walk we were accompanied by a bunch of Maasai ladies who sales their jewels. They ask what your name each is after 3mint. Or so just to make sure they keep conservation with mzungus. It a real nondescript village, few shirkers and huts give it a category of village unless otherwise, it could be something. We had almost worm coke as we were waiting for our rice mixed with ugali (maize meal) and chicken order to be delivered. This kind of food it already becomes a tradition dish (rice, ugali, beans, meat with relish and occasional greens). The chicken was among of tough chicken I ever hard, Hennie has got more fun story. He had fibula, the part of chicken leg with enough steak, he takes a bite which requires extra effort to get meet out, unfortunately, there was ligament stick on teeth when he pulls it the ligament slid through his fingers painful hit his cheek. For the sake of his old teeth, he pushes the chicken plate to me. Outside the place we sat, the Maasai ladies already open the shop so when we got out we were obliged to pay attention to their product but noon was in the mood of shopping so we walked back. Behind the shops were quickly closed down and about four of them followed us begin that we should buy from them, it was irritating and embracing but there was nothing I could do to these persistence ladies. The one who introduced herself early as Helena was almost singing with an amazing low tone “Buy this for Helena, Buy this for Helena, Buy this for Helena…” Apparently, Hennie’s wife called Helena as well so it was like the song was dedicated to his though he was the one with no interest at all. Actually, their trick walk as Francois bought enough souvenirs from them finally.


The land of Konyagi…
The dinner was in the same place but this time with advance order so this makes things a bit soft. Kilimanjaro beer ease things but not to make a real change of the world around us, our friend camp stuff from Arusha he offers “The spirit of the nation” Konyagi, it might fit on gin made from fruit so far found only in Tanzania so far. Hennie and our new friend are alcoholic while I and Francois we straggle to swallow this strong white liquor. The noise generator comes into life but soon swallowed by reggae music, One love, Together as one, Don’t worry…. are kind of songs plus Konyagi which totally changed our world around and take us to the sky.


Today we have support vehicle, an old Land Rover (Tdi), it will accompany us till we cross Serengeti. With unloaded bikes we were looking forward to a different day, yes it was, we spent almost half riding time to repaired Francois’ flat tire, he now lost his tubeless. We cycled along the valley wall which often pored rocks on the road make it almost impassable. As we start to accent the escarpment it was midday with 40 degrees Celsius. We get in the vehicle and drive for the rest of the day to Wasso in Loliondo district. The Mrs. “Flackefuric” Afrikaan word for earth pig, took us through Great Rift Valley then immerge in the plains which stretch as far as Ngorongoro highland s. It is thick bushes with bit different looking people though dress almost like Maasai. Their bantu people known as Sonjo split during the era of ethnics clashes settle themselves in the middle of maasai and adopt much of their culture and tradition except language. Their now good Maasai revivers, time to time there is break up of clashes. Sonjo uses arrow and bow while Maasai use spear, thinks should be interesting war. By the way, Sonjo being from the latest group of the people there happen to be bit clever to Maasai. One of the fun stories was that Maasai offered scarifies of cattle, got or sheep at Ol Donyo Lengai (the mountain of god) for different purposes such as prayer for rain or stop volcano eruption which they consider to be Ngai hanger. When they leave this gift for their god Sonjo came and takes them away pretend to be their god. So Maasai believe that their sacrifice has been totally accepted.


We stopped for cake in the center of Sonjo land, they’re not real friendly or they don’t know how to interact so when to beg they ask with an expression of demanding and in the absolutely different language.
Our land rover struggle with uphills and scramble with downhills in the almost in the passable road, all these take as to the Maasai town in the middle of total know where. It Maasai town, I call them real Maasai, they are Maasai maybe you have never seen before real warlike. Men/warriors are tall wearing a short toga with beautiful long locks with ridiculous decoration, necklaces the same to the ankle and knee. They paint their brown skin with red okra and cattle oil which give them giraffe’s color. They walk with amazing swagger and look at you as asking did you want to fight? It is a market day the main commodity here is life stork. The whole town is full of people in red toga some on the phone, some carried their got or sheep on their neck as you do carry your young boy and so the scenes go.


We have now accustomed to some fun things came up from time to time in such town, once Hennie asks me “in this part of the world you get a tower in the guest house?” This means he doesn’t demand as he does early in the expedition the same wonders go to the food and others the stuff of such sort.
We drive to the Serengeti entrance gate, and then spend the whole day inside the park for a game drive. Having one day here means we have to go around as much as possible with only short break will saw lots of animals plenty of gazelle, Bunch of elephant herds, lions pride sleep as they are dead, numerous birds just as much as you can imagine. Our enthusiasm couldn’t help us from getting tired, that is what happened in the evening we could hardly keep on talking about animals. As we were driving towards the fort Ikoma gate with the only intention of finding accommodation, unusual scene which awakes our feeling of wonder once again; “ The Migration” , hundreds, and hundreds of wildebeests running on the almost interminable queue. It was a thrilling moment that unexpected will carry on the following day.


Cycle with Wildebeest Migration
After one and half rest day of driving we now back on our four combined machine, two-wheel and two legs. Ikoma village where we slept is in Gurumeti /Ikorongo game Reserves less then 10km from the few human settlements the wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles are uncountable. I think confused by unusual creatures they began to run randomly on the plains but as monitored they soon form a long queue, when we stopped to let them pass it take them about 30minutes to cross to one side then when we start moving they start again and again. I bent they are a couple of millions covered about 20km of our cycling track. They stretch to the horizons in the short green plains when we find trees and bush and hills comes large harem of Impalas under single male; What unfair distribution? When we finish the game reserves come the chains of villages which insure us enough fuel.
We arrived at the ferry to Ukerewe island in the lunchtime, after waiting for a while we board the ferry which Francois says is the slowest he have ever use. We kept on cycling in the island, after 14km from ferry we arrived at Nasio, the center of Ukerewe islands. We slept in the decent lodge, having shower after two bush camps always accompany by the food we cook ourselves telling each other is delicious while the truth we wouldn’t eat it if we were not starving. Here we had good food and cold beers. The next day we board the boat again crossed to Mwanza at lunchtime we were in the town. We had a chance to enjoy the comfort of home at Hennie’s nephew's works in Mwanza.
We left Mwanza cross by 30mint. Ferry to the other side of the lake then continues with a ride along the shore through chains of the village. These are those villages where every stranger called “my friend-rafiki”, some folks sitting on the roadside hiss just to take your attention.


The terrains and weather still give as big favor; it is cloud, then sunrise the hot quick then followed by short showers. We are still enjoying birdlife with Hennie thanks our fanatic behavior now pulls Francois in, he tried to memorize the names but can’t join in when we through our bikes away chasing rare spices such Palm Nut Vulture. In this region, we have enough fuel fruits, sweet maize, cold coke and traditional dish (rice, ugali, tough chicken/meet). What we couldn’t avoid it crowd, when we stop in the village within 5minutes we were in the middle of crowd. This situation total embarrass for Francois previous he enjoys it as he record the scene but now it becomes annoying.
In the evening we arrived at Nkome, this was out of my expectation; everyone was really exhausting. Adding 2km to Rubondo Island National Park gate was unwelcome suggestion if not to avoid the crowd. As normal in any tourist area, the management of Rubondo Island Np wanted the payment of 40$ per person for camping on the grass without even running water.


We camp just out of the fence with the help of Haji, the ranger on duty. In the morning come the mass spectators, passing by heading to their farm they spend about 3hrs wondering till Francois cleverly tells them “we are tired!” He got in his tent intestinal but pretending he was changing exposes his buttocks on the window. The mass roar for gilt or shame view while they run away from the cause of seen mzungu”s buttock.


Surviving Wooden Visual…
We finish with our breakfast, dismantle our 6 stars hotels, park and disappear. We cycle downhill to Nkome port, it crowded Saladin port. There few medium size wooden boats, ours no yet to arrive but seen these we had a picture of what sort of transport we are going to us. I was given the time when it might arrive but should I really rely on time in this far isolated world? It was hard to find somewhere to sit and wait in such a crowded area which now all the attention is on people on bikes. Fortunately, we lucky find wooden small restaurant/hotel or Mgahawa, it has almost soundproof, Tv and cassette radio which played Celen Dion, Rick martin and West life music so it wasn’t really the isolated world as I thought.


Hennie and Francois they were in the puzzle which they decided to remain with but I could see it in their faces. Listen to such music here in noose small but crowded with the smell of rotten and dried Saladin. If you are those super hygiene folks here you will vomit and you may starve.
Then came our boat it blew two-vehicle honk to announce it arrive, it is a wooden vassal with iron sheet roof to keep passengers out of sun and rain, the passenger sat on wood benches total uncomfortable for the journey of 4hrs. A there generator that supplies the power loud music out of terrible sounding speakers. If that is not enough to keep passengers out of boredom there is TV playing some local film. On top of the roof is captains’ cabin, in this cabin, there is a bunch of captains with qualification of experience and test of surviving skills. It is a small cabin but they are able to share with their friends or relatives who happen to travel to day. Downstair passenger and cargo are mixed together, there were about 20 large sucks of Saladin. These plus passengers it seems like the boat was overloaded but who knows its capacity? It happens that it was unevenly loaded this was when it couldn’t live the shore; it was stark on the mad. It was confirmed now we were in certain danger. The bunch of unorganized boat stuff divides the passengers just by shouting to them, nothing like customer care here. Then cargo, at last, was even distributed so the boat had got balance but still it was heavy, the engine couldn’t pull it back to the deep water. But in such a busy place wasn’t had to get help so the boat was pushed into deep water. After few minutes off shore the engine dead then after less than 5 minutes came into life so we carry on with our almost journey impossible.
It was a long tire someday no matter how we tried to enjoy the beauty of the lake which decorated with several green and rock islands. The stops and speed of the boat uncomfortable benches no chance to take a nap.


At 4pm we made it to Muganza, finally, the “journey impossible” was possible and worth experience. We cycled to the village had lunch then hit the tarmac road for the first time since Arusha though it is for less than 50km. Before dark, we sort beautiful bush camp at the isolated house I the vast valley surrounded by hills with the perfect sunrise the next morning.



The heart of Africa…
The terrains once again it is characterized by rolling hills, it seems as we are slowly acceding. We cycled through the most boundary of the Biharamulo game reserve, the vegetation switch to miombo woodland which always doesn’t support a large population if not at all. No villages and if we come across one it is on top of a hill or downhill out of the main track, simply it wasn’t worth to try. In the afternoon on those rolling hills come the prize of the day, magnificent view vast region on top of it came the rain. We had rain before but those were showers which we could cycle through for 30 to 45 minutes. This one was heavy and because it rains for an extended period of time it becomes cold. My fellows like water or let me say rain, I don’t but I had to cycle through and slowly I stated to enjoy it but today it got them. They were the ones to pull off and find shelter. We cycle to Biharamulo town to find a decent guest house. As normal in this rare chance, you eat well and drink enough. We had dinner in the nearby pub then we give try to Konyagi again. In this part of the world reggae music is among the popular music, you may not enjoy it anywhere else as you may do here. Thanks for Dj who happen to sport us then drop few reggae tracks, just as he knows, I and Hennie climb to the stage and enjoy ourselves followed by locals so we had the honor to open sturdy local part. the part was close to our guest house, it keeps awake me till nearly morning.



We tack cab in the morning the junction then add few kilometers for the consideration of Francois GPS worrying of bandit on the miombo forest. After breakfast, we jump on the bikes and tackle the hills which getting is incising dramatically. At lunchtime we were in Rusumo border post, we stamp ext in Tanzania cross Kagera River and stamp entree in Rwanda. We had lunch at the restaurant overhang on the river valley. The different start with food here it buffee a variety of foods all served together according to you preference, faces are more beautiful proportional built though looking too naïve. If that wasn’t surprise there were more to come, asking information you need to imply about three languages, Kiswahili wasn’t enough, English limited or no at all, French for some literate, Nyarwanda for all. So I remind myself the greetings and few worlds I leant back the days this is best way of starting a conversation for the people who meet strangers occasionally.


The big puzzle we left behind is saying to locals that we were cycling to Kigali or Chigali as it pronounced by locals. When I see different expressions to people I talk with I ask if it is safe the answer was “No” “the mountains are going to kill you”.
Bicycle transportation is well developed here; there are lots of bikes parking waiting for passengers whom I think should be mostly for downhills. Anyways, this is perfect for environmental conservation and it really popular here. As the matter of fact this bicycle transportation seem to provided employment for quick growing population though think logical how many people you have to haul to make sure you collect enough franc. Frankly to say it can’t fulfill ambitions of your generations. However, government didn’t let them free at all; all the bikes are registered and have got plate numbers. Riders have to be a certain uniform which differs from town to town.


We probably inspire these cyclists, a bunch of them join us as we left the border town, cycle with us up hills. We tried to talk random subjects, I found out some of them they just return to their mother country but they were born in the refugee camps. Though our companion didn’t go far that 10km but we real enjoyed the company and this was repeated time to time as we pass through the village till we were near Kigali where motor cycle takes place of bikes.
We managed to cycle up to Kihere and find accommodation just 1hr before as we were still in Tanzania time. Buffe diners with primus were made everything ease; this is fun things for all cyclists as Alastia Humphries and Peter Gostlow. In the next day Francois awake us in Tanzania time then we went for breakfast and complain as it was late for us, there it when I find out we were in different time zone.
The landscape of this country it most stunning future, it is hills; green dotted with red bricks houses. In the valleys it perfect for farming due to its high water table. In the first time as I see the population I couldn’t expect to spot any birds but in this trip, we sport the rare and unique vulture, Palm Nut Vulture.
The day was not different from yesterday, it is still hills which we are slowly get used, and by the way they are decreasing. In the junction town we get decent accommodation, self-contained room with Dstv.
We left in the morning, the road it less challenge, the increasing urban life in one way or other energizes us.
At 2pm we was in the top of the one hill just the street of Kigali but to go in the “centre ville” city center, it another odorous job of downhill with traffic jam and traffic light then uphill with the sun, unusual looking of folks on the sterling in the jam. After reservations for gorilla trek, calculate the days which will be remain it happen that there will be no enough time to make to Bujumbura so we left it pending. From Kigali I will take a bus to Nairobi through Kampala there I will finish with visa of Sudan and Ethiopia then wait to fly to Cairo ready for Tour D’Afrique! Cairo –Cape Town.


Wish to hear about political up to date of recent visited country:
The East Africa countries Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania and two twice Burundi and Rwanda slowly are moving to their dream political and economic federation. Recently they open the free market and movement of their citizens, being citizen from these countries you can work anywhere within. Prior to Ocampo’s 6 where 6 Kenyan politicians have mentioned in the first list to work to ICC to answer their charge concerning 2007-8 “post election clashes” which coast about 5000 lives. Observers are saying if this begins then the long arm of law should be extended to Kagame, Museven, Kony, Mkurunzinza, Bashiri, etc. The observations show that the entire region with the exception of Tanzania, the ruling governments are accused of crime against human rights. Remember that with exceptional Kenya and Tanzania other are military who after size the power try to turn to democracy. Kenya which for long time has been strong and stable according to the wikeleak, it mentioned as a swamp of corruption, drug money in the politics and dynasty in the current politics are the things which slow down the country’s democracy.
Meanwhile, Southern Sudan government which increase it tire with East Africa countries it is on the countdown to the historical moment, referendum, decide remain to be part of northern Sudan!

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Arusha-Kigali

Here goes the saga of bicycle tour from Arusha Tanzania to Kigali Rwanda, I’m worry that few will be able to go through all due to my frailer of make it short, enjoy it as it is my pleasure to share with you.
Begin…
It start as dinner talk with Hennie in Johannesburg last year then we discus it in the mail, to the phone and finally we meet and go through maps in the detail as much as possible, weather, geography, security and so the list continues. The logistic become more complicated and tense as I’m leading the group unsupported to in the most remote areas, imagine how many question you will have to answer for an Dr. Engineer of 65 years old!
How does someone begin a journey like this one? There should be lot of approaches. The differences come when it is bicycle safari, through tough areas and challenging regions. Anyways we plan put as cyclist Helen Lloyds put it “plans are like rules which are there to be broken” .
There are lots of things to consider but with the experienced cyclists Hennie and Francois, I have less to worry; Hennie, holding the record of the oldest person ever riding the Freedom Challenge while Francois did it twice. Do not get fooled by the name “Freedom Challenge”, this is one of the most respectable mountain bike races by the way you may not even ever hear about it.. Most think about fitness and being able to be number one. Though these count, there are also other things which you will have to consider before making the decision of jumping on it. It takes place during the southern winter, 6 days on the highlands of the Drakensberge in South Africa, no support vehicle; no GPS but only map and compass find you way to the sleeping point! I don’t want to exaggerate but I mean it mountain bike tour which includes so many things more than you may imagine. Please do not hesitate to check out their site www.freedomchallenge.org.za. I’m also dreaming of it but I’m pretty aware that is a damn though if I will be able to transform it into reality soon I’ll be the youngest man.
So this is bit experienced group but adventure it adventure rarely count on experience, anyway we are doing it for the sake of new experience. After driving from airport we had nice Indian dinner of chicken barbeque, variety breads and verges with enough paper. We took short walking around the town for stretching then last parking. We left Arusha town the morning of Sunday with company of Trish, we cycled west north of the town try to avoid tarmac road. As normal or it the character of cyclist I don’t know, we were full of energy enthusiastic. It such moment when I’m tired I always try to remind myself. The cool breeze wind cooling our body while the green escalating landscapes ease our mind and so we pedal counting down kilometers. At noon the sun become ferocious, suck out water from our body result on exhaustion. At the sometime the climb start, cycled uphill towards Mt.Monduli(2660m) it was at its most began. We take a break at it foot hill village Monduli chini (lower monduli). Rice, beans and meat with two cokes each does the job. Here Trish could have to say bye. We were pleased to have female company; she had challenge from her colleges telling them she is going to cycle. She get well with the other and engaged in the different conversation this make her short time more enjoyable, she might be envied for the guys who will do this for more 19 days, thanks she already knew the price; hills, heat it’s what she experienced so far.

Realty, in the greet rift valley basin…
Just after lunch the weather changed H2Oclouds, may be cumulonimbus cover the sky slow down the sun rays pushed by wind now can’t avoid this low pressure part the rain forest will pull water down, this was good omen for us. Soon rain was washing our sweat bodies somehow ease the uphill labor toward the peak of Monduli. As Francois has to push his bike up we had short breaks with Hennie for birds identification, we were now in the mountain rain forest. The secretive Tropical Boubou doesn’t seem to care for our presence, still make it call which give it a.k.a Bottle Bird. These calls vary and eco in the forest and valleys. “Pity my frau” it what Red Chest Cuckoo claim from the high branches. Unfortunately beautiful Hartlabu’s Turaco didn’t come out for Hennie to see what he see in the book. Now the shower was passing but since we were already high enough we continue enjoying the dump air. We stopped at Monduli juu (Upper Monduli), refuel out fuel with strongest brand oil in the universe “Coke Cola”. I used this time to drop some few tips about the region; we are in the home of Maasai by the way these are modern Maasai. Monduli juu is home of Sokoine, former Tanzania prime minister as well as Monduli chini Lowasa though in the last government he has to resign accused for corruption.

We decent to the plains we were amazed of how it was dry, hot, rocks road and middle of nowhere. It is hard to imagine there people live here, the people we come across were Maasai in the meeting under acacia shade. I had quick view to the scene, some sat on the rocks, some ease lay but tentatively listen to the one who was stand and hardly try to explain something to his fellow who now their attention turned to whites and black who lost the direction. I guess he should be the strong one who can not only face lion but strangers as well. From the group walk towards us greet with the best of his Kiswahili and ask to offer me support. I give him little and simple explanation as much as possible but I could sense how hardly he could grasp what I’m telling him. We carry on behind accompanied by expression less faces of the congregation. I was bit sad know that we real break that meeting which I was told was to solve misunderstand between two families. This scene it real broad topic will be discussed for the certain extend period.
I do admire Maasai for their brevity, their willingness to restore their culture, tradition and their uniqueness but my recent discovery of Maasai character particular men being story tellers it total surprise. Maasai men, I mean the one who already circumcised if you’re not circumcised they do not considered you as man. Soon after circumcision you will get few life storks from your daddy then you can start to build your flock, the flock size determines the size of your family; wives plus children. So these mans apart of counting their beast in the morning and evening, examine who is pregnant who is not they have nothing much to do. They will work across the plains to the meeting place by passing his neighbors’ boma (the enclosure) talk about is beast as this is main topic. They will meet under acacia tree somewhere for the rest of the day chewing tobacco and talk whatever they know but most should relate to the beasts. One of my friend tell me these guys are lease even pronouncing words when he failed to listen what they were saying testing his poor Maasai. So now you can imagine the stranger scene of whites on the loaded bikes, there will be lots to talk their skins, dress, what they eat? Which kind of cow? Et cetera. The fun thing is that they never interrupt each, everyone has chance to explain whatever he knows, and no one will disagree by the way one do not need even to have evidence. They do not know about lying and cheating all are the same to them, Isn’t this interesting?
As the sun start to sink on the west we also start to talk about where we can pass the night, find the best sport it always the agreement but in the bush which look almost the same and the fact that the day become cooler your muscle are total obsessed by rhythm of pedaling it make even harder to make quick decision. The first boma we came across with after couple of hours remand Francois his dream of sleep with maasai. He is real enthusiast and emotional person it will be hard to disagree with his suggestion. We deviated from the main track cycle towards the boma, under acacia tree are some few members of this large compound. I great them in maasai. After short conversation with understand that we need somewhere to sleep one man lead us in the enclosure full of huts then in to one of the hut. By sign and few words from Kiswahili I told him we just need the ground and not his precious bed with cattle hide. Within 1hr there were reasonable amount of expectoters, they didn’t come bare hands this will be rude for visitors, they brought about enough flies. We strangle to pitch tents as wind blow and through flies. The flies made this place uncomfortable they tend to concentrate on face places like mouth, eyes, ears they real irritate. Hennie I try our best to copy up while Francois straggle with flies spry but all in vain. Then lastly come the fun and final challenge the expectators doesn’t decrease neither seem to satisfy their curiosity. They could watch Hennie each movement he happed to make, for couple minutes without even exchange the words. We get busy with cooking then me and Hennie remain out there eating while Francois hid on his tent try to avoid all sort of unpleasant. The flush lights, binoculars and cell phones so far seem to be most of their interest at the end.. The fresh milk as normal was brought to us soon after livestock arrived. The arrive of these beast change the entire enclosure, make it busy for a while, the young guys who were in the bush since morning now they have their chance to whiteness what the luck brought to their home. We hide in our tents give chance for our host to discuss a bit about this Ngai’s (god) miracle. It happened to be enough for my clients in the morning we left without even cook the breakfast.

We cycled towards Mt.Kitumbeine (2942m) then avoid it as we take right around the mountain; fortunately, we find water on the foothills. It was 10am but it was hot as mid day, the road have been changed and cut by water. With the plan to get at Engaruka which now we could only guess how far the town lie the only thing we could see it rift valley wall. We plan to have lunch in that village. Our assumptions proved wrong as road get worse and worse. It turn to be deep sand impossible to cycle, then plains changed to simply desert no trees for couple of hours . The only thing you see on the horizon is blackish like water which is evaporation from deadly backed land. This was dangerous for my clients it was impossible to cycle for a km without stop for drink; the risk was to be hydrated which could lead into serious trouble. We cycled between balanites trees the only shade. In one shade a Maasai warrior equipped with spear, stick and a long machete the usually carry on their wrist. We chart briefly then we remain speech less as I couldn’t talk much, he stay with us till we continue cycling then he follows us till he couldn’t keep the pace. That kind of rough, dust, tough and pain ride carry on. This is the time when 2km become like 10kms, patient become expensive commodity, there is nothing else we would feel better to do more than lie down and carried by fatigue sleep.
As it was approaching 3pm as we slowly approached the Engaruka “Oasis”; Just a narrow and long green patch stretch from Great Rift Valley wall and after a while disappeared on the thirst plains. This green and the sign of water was real great relief. Our people are still Maasai; as usual they stand along and let as pass the sign of respect but also have enough time to stare to stranger people. We pay negotiable price for culture tourism program with discount of being such tired poor cyclist. We find semi-cold coke, the cokes which are putted in the water. These are considered to be cold which might be true if you travel by road through the plains and find them. We also had the same kind of food as the last lunch with slight difference which fit according to the distance from modern life. There is decent camping site up the village just close to the escarpment with running water, a privacy and shade what else should we hope for? In the village; the nurse who I knew she prepared a dinner for special order, again for this areas quality we all consider it far better.

Sand rise instead of sun rise….
We had a huge breakfast at the same place with a surprise of egg which had almost a full developed chicken in, any way you do need to rise you voice or show you surprise to much as this might be only the begin of wonders ;what if you eat such egg? Thanks for such big breakfast which though didn’t live long as we begin with 15kms of sands which demand no much than you to push your bike slowly. I sort a friendship with herder boys who in turn help to push my loaded bike. Apart of that the, heart doesn’t show any mercy on poor cyclists. About 2hrs since starting I felt the need of change the way we were cycling; Hennie always push very strong in the morning start to slow down in the midday and straggle in the evening just the same to my 75 year old Danish cyclist , Bent. Francois could stay on the middle though it happen sometime to straggle to finish it. The plan was to make the group to take it more ease as the day is long ahead and difficult. I made them stop at pre-school healed under acacia tree, in the begin it seem inconvenience for them to stop but as we left our bike on the road side and walk towards this unique school things start to change. It Maasai children made circle and in the middle is a maasai girl of about 18-20yrs. Just close lie two Maasai guys. There were also several plastic bottles which contain milk for each child. Also there are little rocks scatted on the dust ground, these are used by the children to write by arrange them to form alphabets or numbers. On their best of courage from stranger visitors they sang to us a Kiswahili song which was about a fool who can’t read so he walks with letter through the village to find someone to read for him. I join in as Francois was busy with filming. This stop apart of change our overconcentration on cycling it prove how it may be different for vehicle safari and bike, it give us something to talk for a while then as the momentum slowly built up we take the conversation in our mind; the child studding under acacia, No chairs, No walls, learn to write by using stones, What about if branch failed or it rain?
It is now hot, Francois got flat tire which take us reasonable amount of time to fix. The road it rock and sand total uncomfortable for cycling. In the midday we stop and make spaghetti lunch then continue with cycling which now is in the very foothills of Ol Donyo Lengai. Gazelles and Zebras run away from these unusually creatures or a Maasai headers who run towards the road. These Maasai run towards us, after greeting they ask for what we have but we can’t give. It is surprise or amazing or sad, the maasai headers some young of 10-15yrs while some adult run for reasonable distance as they see us then desperately ask for water “Maji, maji, maji” while they are showing the sign of drinking. Doesn’t matter what you tell them they will repeat again and again as they run with you. After a while they will consider themselves not to be luck enough so they will late you go. The things are the mixed feelings created by this scene, these people they are with huge hear but without water to drink I’m not sure about food because they never ask for. Then come these cyclists with enough bottles on their bikes but each drop is calculated. This cycling in this time was real challenging; what can I do with this you guy running along me telling me he is dying so I should give him water? How did they survivor with their cattle? This was Hinnie’s question which directly I translate to Maasai guy who come to ask for water as we stop for stretching. He said they walk the cattle to the water after each 2 days or so. The water seems to be another precious element because even in the village there was still someone begging for water or a bottle.
The day become longer and more challenge as I had series of flat tires, sand road cut through by water flowing from Lengai. Engaresero village laid about 60km north-west of Engaruka; we passed through two other Maasai’s claiming their collecting village fees, What if every village in the country establishes the same program? The reality is to painful, these money didn’t get as far as stomach of few politician. The second gate is in the middle of nowhere I tell them about my feeling then it was to negotiate. NO COKE STOP. We made it to Engaresero campsite 4pm total exhausted, beaten up but recover after two semi-cold cokes.
The camp is typical tourists place with tented lodge maybe for honey mooned who are the most people I meet here; they come for flamingos, trekk or on transit to and from Serengeti. The camping sites it pleasant with wonderful bird life around. We us the pool to cool down our cells, the swimming pool is sun heated water pass through from escarpment, it green in color you need to take extra care as it very slippery without caution note.
Waiters are in Maasai outfit serving what seem far over priced drinks. The dinner cost 25$per person may be worth having western food middle of gods knows but two potatoes, a small meet pie came after little sweet maize it is a joke for a cyclists like us. Francois had good idea to deal with this situation, when our maasai waiter come no complain, no asking but suggestion, I place the suggestion and miraculous it works , addition pates of race and beans become real food for the same price.
Pink horizon….
Francois is full of cleaver suggestion; he knew when to present them and how to put them. As the matter of fact we were not going to do Mt Lengai as it was plan, Francois says the flamingos are worth for a rest day. From the camp to Lake Natron it about 6km on deep sand and deadly hot, I asked the ride from drive with two German old couple but he was too scared so I ask Hennie to go and talk with his age group. We had ride to the Lake Natron the home of thousands lesser flamingo as well as great. They are so many to stretch to the horizon hence pink horizon.
We agree to have lunch and dinner in the village, the village is about 10mint. We walking from camp, as we walk we was accompanied by bunch of Maasai ladies who sales their jewels. They ask what your name each is after 3mint. Or so just to make sure they keep conservation with mzungus. It a real nondescript village, few shirkers and huts give it a category of village unless otherwise it could be something. We had almost worm coke as we were waiting for our rice mixed with ugali (maize meal) and chicken order to be delivered. This kind of food it is already become a tradition dish (rice, ugali, beans, meat with relish and occasional greens). The chicken was among of tough chicken I ever hard, Hennie has got more fun story. He had fibula, the part of chicken leg with enough steak, he take a bite which require extra effort to get meet out unfortunately there was ligament stick on teeth when he pull it the ligament slid through his fingers painful hit his cheek . For the sake of his old teeth he pushes chicken plate to me. Outside the place we sat the Maasai ladies already open the shop so when we got out we were obliged to pay attention to their product but noon was in the mood of shopping so we walked back. Behind the shops were quickly closed down and about four of them followed us begin that we should buy from them, it was irritating and embracing but there was nothing I could do to these persistence ladies. The one who introduce herself early as Helena was almost singing with amazing low tone “Buy this for Helena, Buy this for Helena, Buy this for Helena…” Apparently Hennie’s wife called Helena as well so it was like the song was dedicated to his though he was the one with no interest at all. Actually their trick walk as Francois bought enough souvenir from them finally.
The land of Konyagi…
The dinner was in the same place but this time with advance order so this make things bit soft. Kilimanjaro beer ease things but not to make real change of the world around us, our friend a camp stuff from Arusha he offer “The spirit of nation” Konyagi, it might fit on gin made from fruit so far found only in Tanzania so far. Hennie and our new friend are alcoholic while I and Francois we straggle to swallow this strong white liquor. The noise generator come into life but soon swallowed by reggae music, One love, Together as one, Don’t worry…. are kind of songs plus konyagi which total changed our world around and take us to the sky.
Today we have support vehicle, an old Land Rover (Tdi), it will accompany us till we cross Serengeti. With unloaded bikes we were looking forward to a different day, yes it was, we spent almost half riding time to repaired Francois’ flat tire, he now lost his tubeless. We cycled along the valley wall which often pored rocks on the road make it almost impassable. As we start to accent the escarpment it was midday with 40 degree Celsius. We get in the vehicle and drive for the rest of the day to Wasso in Loliondo district. The Mrs. “Flackefuric” Afrikaan world for earth pig, took us through Great Rift Valley then immerge in the plains which stretch as far as Ngorongoro highland s. It is thick bushes with bit different looking people though dress almost like Maasai. Their bantu people known as Sonjo split during the era of ethnics clashes settle themselves in the middle of maasai and adopt much of their culture and tradition except language. Their now good Maasai revivers, time to time there is break up of clashes. Sonjo use arrow and bow while maasai use spear, thinks should be interesting war. By the way Sonjo being from latest group of the people their happen to be bit clever to maasai. One of the fun story was that, maasai offered scarifies of cattle, got or sheep at Ol Donyo Lengai (the mountain of god) for different purposes such as prayer for rain or stop volcano eruption which they consider to be Ngai hanger. When they leave this gift for their god Sonjo came and takes them away pretend to be their god. So maasai believe that their sacrifice have been total accepted.
We stopped for cake in the center of sonjo land, they’re not real friendly or they don’t know how to interact so when to beg they ask with expression of demanding and in the absolutely different language.
Our land rover straggle with up hills and scramble with down hills in the almost in passable road, all these take as to the maasai town in the middle of total know where. It maasai town, I call them real maasai, they are maasai may be you have never saw before real war like. Men/warriors are tall wearing short toga with beautiful long locks with ridiculous decoration, necklaces the same to the ankle and knee. They paint their brown skin with red okra and cattle oil which give them giraffe’s color. They walk with amazing swagger and look at you as asking did you want to fight? It is a market day the main commodity here is life stork. The whole town is full of people in red toga some on the phone, some carried their got or sheep on their neck as you do carry your young boy and so the scenes goes.
We are now accustomed with some fun things came up time to time in such town, once Hennie ask me “in this part of the world you get tower in the guest house?” Which means he don’t demand as he does early in the expedition the same wonders goes to the food and others stuff of such sort.
We drive to the Serengeti entrance gate, and then spend the whole day inside the park for game drive. Having one day here means we have to go around as much as possible with only short break will saw lots of animals plenty of gazelle, Bunch of elephant herds, lions pride sleep as they are dead, numerous birds just as much as you can imagine. Our enthusiasm couldn’t help us from getting tired, that is what happened in the evening we could hardly keep on talk about animals. As we were driving towards fort Ikoma gate with only intension of finding accommodation, unusual scene which awake our feeling of wonder once again; “ The Migration” , hundreds, and hundreds of wildebeests running on the almost interminable queue . It was thrilling moment which unexpected will carry on in the following day.
Cycle with migration…
After one and half rest day of driving we now back on our four combined machine, two wheal and two legs. Ikoma village where we slept is in Gurumeti /Ikorongo game Reserves less then 10km from the few human settlements the wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles are uncountable. I think confused by unusual creatures they began to run randomly on the plains but as monitored they soon form a long queue, when we stopped to let them pass it take them about 30minutes to cross to one side then when we start moving they start again and again. I bent they are couple of millions covered about 20km of our cycling track. They stretch to the horizons in the short green plains when we find trees and bush and hills comes large harem of Impalas under single male; What unfair distribution? When we finish the game reserves comes the chains of villages which insure us enough fuel.
We arrived at the ferry to Ukerewe island in the lunch time , after waiting for a while we board the ferry which Francois says it is a slowest he have ever use. We kept on cycling in the island, after 14km from ferry we arrived at Nasio, the center of Ukerewe islands. We slept in the decent lodge, having shower after two bush camps always accompany by the food we cook ourselves telling each other is delicious while the truth we wouldn’t eat it if we were not starving. Here we had good food and cold beers. In the next day we board boat again crossed to Mwanza in the lunch time we were in the town. We had a chance to enjoy a comfort of home at Hennie’s nephew works in Mwanza.
We left Mwanza cross by 30mint. Ferry to the other side of lake then continue with ride along the shore through chains of village. These are those villages where every stranger called “my friend-rafiki”, some folks sitting on the road side hiss just to take your attention.
The terrains and weather still give as big favor; it is cloud, then sun rise the hot quick then followed by short showers. We are still enjoying birds life with Hennie thanks our fanatic behavior now pull Francois in, he tried to memorize the names but can’t join in when we through our bikes away chasing rare spices such Palm Nut Vulture. In this region we have enough fuel fruits, sweet maize, cold coke and traditional dish (rice, ugali, tough chicken/meet). What we couldn’t avoid it crowd, when we stop in the village within 5minutes we were in the middle of crowd. This situation total embarrass for Francois previous he enjoy it as he record the scene but now it become annoying.
In the evening we arrived at Nkome, this was out of my expectation; everyone was real exhausting. Adding 2km to Rubondo Island National Park gate was unwelcome suggestion if not to avoid crowd. As normal in any tourist area, the management of Rubondo Island Np wanted the payment of 40$ per person for camping on the grass without even running water.
We camp just out of the fence with help of Haji, the range on duty. In the morning come the mass expectators, passing by heading to their farm they spend about 3hrs wondering till Francois cleverly tell them “we are tired!” He got in his tent intestinal but pretending he was changing exposes his buttocks on the window. The mass roar for gilt or shame view while they run away from cause of seen mzungu”s buttock.
Surviving Wooden Versaul…
We finish with our breakfast, dismantle our 6 stars hotels, park and disappear. We cycle downhill to Nkome port, it crowded Saladin port. There few medium size wooden boats, ours no yet to arrive but seen these we had a picture of what sort of transport we are going to us. I was given the time when it might arrive but should I real rely on time in this far isolated world? It was hard to find somewhere to sit and wait in such crowded area which now all the attention is on people on bikes. Fortunately, we lucky find wooden small restaurant/hotel or mgahawa, it has almost sound proof, Tv and cassette radio which played Celen Dion, Rick martin and West life music so it wasn’t real isolated world as I thought.
Hennie and Francois they were in puzzle which they decided to remain with but I could see it in their faces. Listen such music here in noose small but crowded with the smell of rotten and dried Saladin. If you are those super hygiene folks here you will vomit and you may starve.
Then came our boat it blew two vehicle honk to announce it arrive, it is a wooden vassal with iron sheet roof to keep passengers out of sun and rain, passenger sat on wood benches total uncomfortable for the journey of 4hrs. There generator which supply the power a loudly music out of terrible sounding speakers. If that is not enough to keep passengers out of boredom there is TV playing some local film. On top of roof is captains’ cabin, in this cabin there are bunch of captain with qualification of experience and test of surviving skills. It is a small cabin but they are able to share with their friends or relatives who happen to travel to day. Down stair passenger and cargo are mixed together, there were about 20 large sucks of Saladin. These plus passengers it seem like the boat was overloaded but who knows it capacity? It happen that it was uneven loaded this was when it couldn’t live the shore; it was stark on the mad. It was confirm now we were in certain danger. The bunch of unorganized boat stuffs divides the passengers just by shouting to them, nothing like customer care here. Then cargo at last was even distributed so the boat had got balance but still it was heavy, the engine couldn’t pull it back to the deep water. But in such busy place wasn’t had to get help so the boat was pushed into deep water. After few minutes off shore the engine dead then after less than 5 minutes came into life so we carry on with our almost journey impossible.
It was a long tire someday no matter how we tried to enjoy the beauty of the lake which decorated with several green and rock islands. The stops and speed of the boat uncomfortable benches no chance of take a nap.
At 4pm we made it to Muganza, finally, the “journey impossible” was possible and worth experience. We cycled to the village had lunch then hit the tarmac road for the first time since Arusha though it is for less than 50km. Before dark we sort beautiful bush camp at the isolated house I the vast valley surrounded by hills with perfect sun rise in the next morning.
The heart of Africa…
The terrains once again it is characterized by rolling hills, it seems as we are slowly acceding. We cycled through the most boundary of Biharamulo game reserve, the vegetation switch to miombo woodland which always doesn’t support large population if not at all. No villages and if we come across one it is on top of hill or downhill out of main track, simply it wasn’t worth to try. In the afternoon on those rolling hills come the prize of the day, magnificent view vast region on top of it came the rain. We had rain before but those were showers which we could cycle through for 30 to 45 minutes. This one was heavy and because it rain for extended period of time it become cold. My fellows like water or let me say rain, I don’t but I had to cycle though and slowly I stated to enjoy it but today it got them. They were the one to pull off and find shelter. We cycle to Biharamulo town find the decent guest house. As normal in this rare chance you eat well and drink enough. We had dinner in the nearby pub then we give try to Konyagi again. In this part of the world reggae music is among of the popular music, you may not enjoy it anywhere else as you may do here. Thanks for Dj who happen to sport us then drop few reggae tracks, just as he know, I and Hennie climb to the stage and enjoy ourselves followed by locals so we had honor to open sturdy local part. the part was close to our guest house, it keep awake me till nearly morning.
We tack cab in the morning the junction then add few kilometers for the consideration of Francois GPS worrying of bandit on the miombo forest. After breakfast we jump on the bikes and tackle the hills which getting is incising dramatically. At lunch time we were in Rusumo border post, we stamp ext in Tanzania cross Kagera River and stamp entree in Rwanda. We had lunch at the restaurant overhang on the river valley. The different start with food here it buffee a variety of foods all served together according to you preference, faces are more beautiful proportional built though looking too naïve. If that wasn’t surprise there were more to come, asking information you need to imply about three languages, Kiswahili wasn’t enough, English limited or no at all, French for some literate, Nyarwanda for all. So I remind myself the greetings and few worlds I leant back the days this is best way of starting conversation for the people who meet strangers occasionally.
The big puzzle we left behind is saying to local that we were cycling to Kigali or Chigali as it pronounced by locals. When I see different expression to people I talk with I ask if it is safe the answer was “No” “the mountains are going to kill you”.
Bicycle transportation is well developed here; there are lots of bikes parking waiting for passengers whom I think should be mostly for down hills. Any ways, this is perfect for environmental conservation and it real popular here. As the matter of fact this bicycle transportation seem to provided employment for quick growing population though think logical how many people you have to haul to make sure you collect enough franc. Frankly to say it can’t fulfill ambitions of you generations. However, government didn’t let them free at all; all the bikes are registered and have got plate numbers. Riders have to be certain uniform which differ from town to town.
We probably inspire these cyclists, bunch of them join us as we left the border town, cycle with us up hills. We tried to talk random subjects, I found out some of them they just return to their mother country but they were born in the refugee camps. Though our companion didn’t go far that 10km but we real enjoyed the company and this was repeated time to time as we pass through the village till we were near Kigali where motor cycle takes place of bikes.
We managed to cycle up to Kihere and find accommodation just 1hr before as we were still in Tanzania time. Buffe diners with primus were made everything ease; this is fun things for all cyclists as Alastia Humphres and Peter Goshtak. In the next day Francois awake us in Tanzania time then we went for breakfast and complain as it was late for us, there it when I find out we were in different time zone.
The landscape of this country it most stunning future, it is hills; green dotted with red bricks houses. In the valleys it perfect for farming due to it high water table. In the first time as I see the population I couldn’t expect to spot any birds but in this trip we sport the rare and unique vulture, Palm Nut Vulture.
The day was not different from yesterday, it is still hills which we are slowly get used, and by the way they are decreasing. In the junction town we get decent accommodation, self-contained room with Dstv.
We left in the morning, the road it less challenge, the increasing urban life in one way or other energizes us.
At 2pm we was in the top of the one hill just the street of Kigali but to go in the “centre ville” city center, it another odorous job of downhill with traffic jam and traffic light then uphill with sun, unusual looking of folks on the sterling in the jam. After reservations for gorilla trek, calculate the days which will be remain it happen that there will be no enough time to make to Bujumbura so we left it pending. From Kigali I will take bus to Nairobi through Kampala there I will finish with visa of Sudan and Ethiopia then wait to fly to Cairo ready for Tour D’Afrique! Cairo –Cape Town.
Wish to hear about political up to date of recent visited country:
The East Africa countries Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania and two twice Burundi and Rwanda slowly are moving to their dream political and economic federation. Recently they open free market and movement of their citizens, being citizen from these countries you can work anywhere within. Prior to Ocampo’s 6 where 6 Kenyan politicians have mention in the first list to work to ICC to answer their charge concerning 2007-8 “post election clashes” which coast about 5000 lives. Observers are saying if this is began then the long arm of law should be extended to Kagame, Museven, Kony, Mkurunzinza, Bashiri, etc. The observations show that the entire region with exception of Tanzania, the ruling governments is accused for crime against human right. Remember that with exceptional of Kenya and Tanzania other are military who after size the power try to turn to the democracy. Kenya which for long time have been strong and stable according to the wikeleak, it mentioned as swamp of corruption, drug money in the politics and dynasty in the current politics are the things which slow down the country’s democracy.
Meanwhile, Southern Sudan government which increase it tire with East Africa countries it is on the countdown to the historical moment, referendum, decide remain to be part of northern Sudan!

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Northern Tanzania ecosystem

It has been a while since I write here, this cause of strong eternal arguments I currently face. I’m fond of writing but since I started to live on this dream I found out there are more things to overcome more than writing interesting stories; prejudices and biased with jealousy, suspicion, fear, envy, and pride. Anyway, this is human nature so slowly I’ll try to avoid them, I hope you will forgive me when you find that kind of thing.

I have been in some adventures, conversational and formal trips plus my daily routines which I won’t tell you unless you steal my diary.

Just to start with a couple of weeks ago, I join SIT (School International Training) Tanzania program. Here I’m a young Tanzania ecologist working with other colleagues who I assume are twice my age, this is not first last year I was elected to an executive committee member of WCST (Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania- Arusha branch), here also I’m the youngest ever before.

What I would like to talk about here, as usual, it about my wild portraits but not the gossips about my life, I know out there are people who have more so better not to make you tired with mine.

As the students land on this safaris country they had no chance to see any of our big towns, from Kilimanjaro airport transferred to West Kilimanjaro. Spent five busy days at Ndarakwa ranch, here they had a glimpse of what they will be up to. Start with African-Tanzania food, Kiswahili language (part of their study), animals viewing with the introduction of how they will study them, walking cross savanna for orientation of ethnobiology and last but not on the least visit Maasai boma and had an only quick view of the richest cultures which strive for existence. There were more but bit individuals mention yoga and stretching under acacia trees on open savanna with a gentle breeze from the highest mount in Africa which the peak lies about 10km, blue sky, and numerous birds songs and calls; This was perfect for YOGA. In particular, I was invited by the runners so imagine running on open wild animal’s ranch, I couldn’t hold back my emotion as we run across impala’s harem. These impalas pay back my run randomly with their spectaculars looping 3m high 6m long what a wonderful scene!


Days went by so fast, till the last day in Ndarakwai still some students were in the dreamland, they didn’t expect all this with incredible academic direct, knowledgeable teachers and high experience crew, learning here was comfortable as luxury safari.

Then came long waited moment, to see Arusha town go to the restaurants have chocolate the things which absolutely remind them back home. Although the time to this town was limited after two days they were already allocated in their home staying each with his/her new family.

Thereafter two weeks was rock and roll back to the wild, Tarangire-Manyara is a study area. Camp inside of Tarangire for busy four days was a total experience which one will never forget. After dinner short time spent on the campfire, here I was taught a few ridiculous games like Jimy Posh, posh, posh! Night followed by wild sound unusual like scoops owl’s, fun as hyena and scaring as lions. One of the students told me that he had to swallow sleeping peals in order to sleep. The morning could start as early as 6am for my bird group, observation, and all those scientific methods then back to camp are calculations, create a hypothesis and lastly each group before lunch present. It was deep in learning to require much attention but all was fun as a ruminant group makes a joke on the non-ruminant group. On the study of vegetations and animals there are challenges such as observing, sex an animal like elephants which never stop but what about a hippo that lies down for entire observing time!

Tarangire was done with a lecture from park warden, here was a useful chance, park warden give lecture on all important subjects including recently elephant population which is about 27 000 to 30000 within 28 000km square in the park without physical boundaries, What a conflict with neighbor communities? What will happen? What is happen? Those are kinds of questions students bomb the park warden. The academic direct claimed that this is an active group of students as long as he can remember for his ten years.

The same program continues to Manyara except for addition of culture walk through Mto wa Mbu, consider is a small place you are likely to meet almost 120+ ethics groups which make up Tanzania.


Learn and explore more at El Mundo Safaris 

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

LIVELY VALLEY



cradle of humanity.
Africa is the most stable of the Earth's landmasses, the most ancient rocks, a fount of life itself and it is also the cradle of humanity. Often the continent characterized by it pristine but paradoxically, since the contact with Europeans it has never being of influence. It is such factors that bring scholars from the developed world to conduct their studies in this open library and laboratory.

acclimatization
On 8th April I with my colleagues assisting four American students with their environmental/ecology studies left Arusha heading to Great Rift Valley. We overnight at Mto wa Mbu town guess with no definitive reason …just merely excuse of acclimatization. Health climate, wonderful social life, stunning views are among things that give this relatively small town a beautiful scenic.


chai
Dinner and breakfast we had here were among highlights, 99% were fresh food from the very farm of this basin….all All available for affordable nonraces prices. The Chai (tea) for stance had a wonderful variety of ingredients which brought about table conversation every one try to cite spices in the chai though none were good expert….. So I call for the cooker who gives out this long ridiculous list; Water from basin's ground springs, milk from D horn Maasai cow, Tanzania tea leaves, ginger from Pare mountains, clove, black paper and other unidentifiable spice from Spices Island, Zanzibar. Cooker concludes by recommending a spice tour in Zanzibar. Chai explanations' was far valuable enlightenment remain let 19th century explores narration to monopolies;

The interior is mostly magnificent and healthy of unspeakable richness...
Cameron the first mzungu known to cross the continent from the Indian Ocean to Atlantic wrote. This is great today contradiction claim of a poorest African country.

As we enjoyed our chai at Red Banana Café which found in the very same premises with Mto wa Mbu culture tourism offices….another day highlight come across. A sort of scorpion fanatics join our chai conversation and switch it to its ambition. It wasn't empty words he took us who were keen and ready for an adventure into the room where he kept about three scorpions spp. His random excitement and emotion explanations include practical as well. By timing he holds the poison sticking tail of the large black scorpion, the scorpion reacts by biting him by two from legs. The bit was persistence so the explanations continue with a scorpion on his hand. The explanations were concluded by reference for more fanatics and fame seekers on the internet. For about 2 and a half hours we stayed there the scorpion to have no idea of losing its bite.


start our adventure
The next morning we start our adventure by loading hired two donkeys. Unfortunately, poor two donkeys who are able to carry up to 50kg couldn't carry large boxes of foodstuff. The 17km walking safaris started at 9:30am, each one carried his/her belongings and camping equipment on a large backpacker. This rare scene had wide explanations by local folks. I thought. Some could say the vehicle of these mzungus maybe had break down while others with little ideal could say no this is how mzungus do sometimes they do even for a tall mountain such as Kilimanjaro. Young Maasai headers run across the plain about a kilometer just come close to rare pale mzungu skin. Those with little curious they just shout Hello! Hello! Hello! No matter if you answer or not. Hello turned to be chorus which is merely deep emotion contact between local folks enjoys luck rare spot of mzungu hat, sunglass, hiking shoes large backpacker, What might be stranger Look!. ..opposite mzungu enjoyed exotic scenery and semi necked human who never feel embarrassed.


Kori Bustard
The expanse, magnificent, stunning views grabbed our attention and concentrations… just turned our neck like Kori Bustards or someone doing yoga stretching which allows our eyes to meet huge long straight erected Great Rift Valley wall with it undulating pulled eyes as much as they can see. Opposite the wall lies northward stretch Ol Kerii escarpments which host Losimingiro, Burko mountains and several other hills Kitumbeine and Gilai peak (28-28 000m)father north as it goes parallel the wall. We walked in this vast savannah basin like with all the fantasy feeling made our brain forget the physical process of walking with such large backpackers… it was until we run out of fuel…feeling hungry. We had our lunch and nap under large flat-top acacia which its shed and gently plains breeze was like an Island for those 13th-century sailors who survived on wreaked
Ship.


Menya Tajiri or Oltimbua Boma
Despite all adventurous excitement first day was a bit demanding until lunchtime we were already covered about 3/4 of our journey. After 3 hours of walking or so we arrived at our planned camping which situated in the Maasai boma known as "Menya Tajiri or Oltimbua Boma". Here we greeted seriously looked old and middle-aged men, happy woman, and children as well as lambs, got cow and thousand flies. We just surprised our hosts and their neighbors by our few lent Maasai words. We erected our tents under acacia trees which fantastic sunrise from Losimingiro mountain and set behind the valley walls its undulating raise to looked like subways on the sky.

On the morning of 10th after what sounds like suppressed rich breakfast out of expectation of such an academic trip..the cooker, Okuli a.k.a Chakuli was that kind of guy who can change impossible to be possible. Official study and data collection started by splitting into the two main groups. Eric and Molly doing transact walking with fun Maasai guide to whom I owe respect heard north while I with hip hop sort of birds expert Alex heading south with Kevin and Annie who were doing the plotting. We planned to walk towards escarpment it was close enough but flood plains made it longer.



I'm not hash, this is Africa
Tallgrass made us do wrong assumption of distance, we walked on the flood with water sometimes reached up kneels. In front as pathfinder I turned back time to time to ask my fellow "Are you Okay?, "Sure..we are" they replayed briefly but their face was speaking loud "What is the f***k you man thinking to make us cross the ocean by feet" I remark, "never mind this is Africa" I conclude. After about 45 minutes of walking on water, we arrived on the rice paddies which was more easy walking on. Finally, we arrived on the edge of yellow back acacia forest "fever trees". Here we did a couple of plotting and follow all scientific procedures though they sound ridiculous sometimes. This forest situated on the foot of the valley wall is extended feeding range for Ngorongoro or Manyara elephant herds as it becomes clear when we found fresh footprints. Agriculture communities attracted by fertile soil stayed for the expanse of elephant as one woman found us and warn us about the risk emphasize it with the story of a woman who lost her life to the charged elephants less than a month.


more than kind!
On the 14th we break our first camp, walked across the plains sometimes without the trails. We had a rest outside solitary Maasai boma. Onesimo charted the hostess who comes out due to our present since Maasai can only ease by elder name, Onesimo a resident of Engaruka knew more than half bomas on these plains whose most of owner migrated from Engaruka. Our temporary hosts they were more than welcome, within ten minutes we were drinking freshly boiled milk… this was more than kind!


the man wore red blankets with a hoe on his hands...
Apart from amazing landscape views there was a day strange scene; a man wore red blankets with a hoe on his hand. It is common to see these man standing with long sticks watch after large herds of cattle, goats, and sheep but with natural dynamics; carbohydrates demands, availability of patch of arable soil and challenged by farmers communities are likely factors pushed this man to attack the harder surface of land with 25.27..30 blows of hand hoe to cover square miter. It is labor demand to remove perennial weeds and short shrubs that grow with grains.


Mando line
We arrived at the camp at lunchtime after our spaghetti lunch we left to Selela by the free ride of old but strong enough land rover known as "mando line" carried about trice its capacity. Since the owner is the decent Maasai guy couldn't dare to left any Maasai going to the market…the mando line entered and passed through the crowded red market which four identical mzungus took its attention.


I do smell like solitary Buffalo
The main aim of going Selela was to get a shower which since we left Mto wa Mbu was just by the can. Alex alleged "As the day passed by without shower my smile is getting worse …from male got now I smell like solitary Buffalo" apart of a laugh not asked for an explanation since it is normal for this guy to speak odd and funny things. Think about the smell of solitary buffalo. Since the bucket shower was one by one system cold coke from paraffin fridge took place. In the late, afternoon we left Selela walking back to the camp situated about 3km northeast which means long way walking without sweating and smell like buffalo again!


Ndorosi camp
The last day at "Ndorosi camp" was among the joy an awestruck morning as huge yellow ball rise from the east, mix and change the colors on the sky bring the light to the vast plains. In this time we congregated under acacia near large termite for a cup of coffee which made the time more than sensation. We started walking 8am one hour late due to the agreed time, four hours walking was very exciting as we walk on the plains, bush and cross the river as it requires us to remove shoes. Large fascinating mammals such giraffes, zebras and gazelles were close spotted as we walk past them. The worth spot was that of rare "giraffe gazelle" Gerenuk. We had our lunch at the bush picnic in the river valley flowing from escarpment towards dry and thirsty plains. Siesta took place as we sat on the riverside listen to the bird's calls with water in the background which created wonderful rhythm. I lost my patient observing this precious subject, slowly I removed my clothes and throw myself into the pool.


Mbuko river side bush camp
The "Mbuko river side bush camp" was just down in the same river where it become more flat. Water as well as fire wood for camp fire was plenty together with the fact that the camp was just on the bush of no where made this camp to rank high among favorites camps.


Maasai morani
The study and data collection took place on all four cardinal directions the long and arduous one being the one which we had to hike uphill without success try to reach valley foot which here gives rise to a certain peak hence lost its common future. We walked on the open bush where we disturb impala rums and dick dick couples whose in turn jump and run randomly while baboons troop respond by backing. As we walk further and further there were threatening feelings due to the bound possibility to meet large carnivorous. I wished I was equipped with spear-like Maasai morani (warriors) but confronting hungry lions could be another story. I told Annie who wasn't ready to leave the sweet life that, "eaten by a lion will bring fame due to the wide story coverage" but she throws out my comments as she says "What the fame will do for a dead person?"

Sadly but with little option 24th "Mbuko riverside bush camp" was broken. This day 12km walking was just sheer surprise as it covered in the relatively short time but not without exhaust as clearly seen here


largest tourists hotel ever in south sahara
The study and data collection was from our camp situated at Engaruka Juu (upper). Our method of plot piece of land here in the well-populated area compare to where we have been was challenged. Wherever we plot the land the owner or other curious folks pop in and bomb us with questions, we just slow them down as we greet them by our lent Maasai then explanation accordingly "These Mzungus work for World Bank they plan to build largest tourists hotel even in south sahara so all maasai will get job as guards" I just tease a maasai who asked me why I'm selling his land to mzungu without his consultation.


African lost city
Engaruka is pretty populated compared to normal maasai village, the population is sustained primarily by agriculture which is well adopted here followed by livestock keeping. Today Engaruka is only a glimpse of an imaginable oldest African lost city. Leakey estimated there were about 6300 stones huts on slopes as well as 500 in the valley. Irrigation terrace was so intensive and extended which we couldn't avoid plotting on its remains. Engaruka said to reach its height in the 14th-17th century (Pre-medieval and medieval centuries) when the large part of the continent experience high rainfall. Further study on the area made it clear that Engaruka inhabited and maintain for a long time by successive groups, mention, Bantu and Afri-Asiatic (Cushitic) agriculturalist and pastoralist groups as well as recently northerner Nilo-tic header. The hereto maasai adopt more small scale farming which they inherit from previous groups whose may abandoned the area due to insufficient rains. Instead of maintaining the city's current inhabitant seem to carry on with a nomadic way of life by building small conical thatch madhouse which the only expense is time thus people here have plenty.


The relative gently slopes allowed the water flow from volcanic Ngorongoro highlands to be channeled for irrigation in the rich alluvial deposit soil as the aerial view from escarpment reveal. Today the remain water channel is less inhabited but intensively exploited by small scale farms. These farms often need to be fenced to keep animals out. Such demands were to some extent and still are environment deteriorate as farmers chopped down particular thorn trees or shrubs like Acacia, Balanite and Comiphora. This kind of tree/shrubs spends ages to build up their special adaptation to survive hence make contribute to the wheel of life in these plains. Thanks for the invention of using Jacktropher seed to produce bio-diesel which run diesel engine here and give electrical light this remote village. The easy growing Jacktropher plaint is planted around the farms and bomas replacing thorn trees/shrubs. Availability of grazing area and semi-permanent water, hormonally diversify social activities creating unique social-economy leave the green patch on the vast dry Savannah pains remain unique in the universe.


mixed feelings
Four nights passed like flush then the time to leave an amazing life which started to absolve as slowly. On the 29th morning, we board the only bus to Mto wa Mbu, it was a typical tense moment, everyone occupied by mixed feelings. Perhaps 48% was the only a person willingness to go back to what was sound like a hectic and depressing world but... Who created such situation isn't we ourselves? While the entire passengers no matter standing or uncomfortable sitting we chatting we were pretending meditating our eyes fixed on sunrise bush and landscape. Talk rise only when rare scenes like when large mammals run parallel the bus. The bus adventure was awesome as normal NO HURRY IN AFRICA take you time when you stop but 120km/h when driving.

We pulled off at Mto wa Mbu without wasting time we went to Red Banana for Chai….Karibu!

Join amazing walking safari, educational tours, and exciting expeditions.
.